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Use railway sleepers and just level them. easy and fast and will last.

A quarry

Doug fir is alot more durable than spruce. If pressure treated then you wil get more than 20% more life expectancy with the Douglas. Spruce shouldnt be used in ground contact good luck

pic shows base for a 5.4 x 3.0 shed. 3 trenches 15cm deep x 30 cm wide dug equally spaced across the 3.0 raised height using 4 & 6 inch blocks. intermediate supports 100 x 50 supported on timber posts concreted in at 75 cm centres you can see floor joists of 150 x 50.....which we put...

check out kingspan's website for the tech ...also consider breather membrane etc etc Internal walls....have you thought about 12mm moisture resistant mdf?....easy to use ...tougher than plasterboard....no skim great surface ready for paint

Or you can use Arris rail mortice brackets http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=mortice+arris+rail+brackets

Tbh with you most that decking after care stuff is a load of rubbish. Its just invented to make somebody money and convince others to buy it. you are better off power washing it of twice a year.

give dingwall sawmills a call and see if you can buy some 2 sided cants off them. they also have pressure treatment facuilities. they are like the rustic 1's in that link from sleeper supplies good luck they used to do their own interlocking kits aswell

can of white spirit and a box of matches. it works everytime. they are a nuisance that should be dealt with.....its all very well for the hillbillys to want to move them......let them do it for you. but if youve ever worked in AE when a person suffering from 50+ stings come in, then perhaps...

google or even use old fashioned yellow pages and search. fencing suppliers timber merchants or sawmills diy stores are generally ****e useless for that kind of stuff and they over charge for it too. good luck

floor joists are 30 mm? how thick are the floor boards? if I were you i would build a sub floor with using 3x 2 or 4x 2 tanalised put celotex between joists then put the floor you got over the top. and also if they ar'nt presure treated the will rot out fairly quick.

concrete slab and block pad foundations. Alot easier and cheaper than full concrete. 6 x 2 tanalised joists 18mm far eastern wbp ply wood 50 mm celotex between joists building size 6m x 3.6 http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m607/fencer39/floor/?action=view&current=DSC00260.jpg

useful link for corrugated roofing http://ondulineroofingsheets.com/onduline_roofing_sheets/Technical_&_Fixing_Info_files/Onduline%20Fixing%20Guide.pdf

can you fix rails / battens directly to the wall and clad them? saves digging , concrete and posts. modern fixings like thunder bolts, resin fix etc will hold pretty much anything good luck !

save yourself a small fortune and lay 5 continuous rows ( level)of concrete blocks across the 12 width get some new 4 x 2 joists across the 18' (some places will stock 18') or double up on split length then add 18mm ply or such for floor ( not osb )

you got 6 x 2 joists supporting a small platform, but only 4 x4 for the main beam on the swings ? suggest you make it 6 x 4 (145 x 90 ) easily done by using polyurathene glue and some screws. Theres a company called blue rabbit that do the accessories or look on e-bay looks pretty good...

plenty of gippo's live in caravans during the winter,+ when your extension is built you can simply tow it away or sell it

i cut my grass then put it in a rubble sacks with the top open ....every couple of months i go to tip with bags as we dont have collection. yes.....it gets a bit messy ,but so what. why dont you cut your grass , put it in sacks like i do then the day before collection empty bags into bin...

you are joking ......right?

If I understand this correctly . There is a run of 6 metres between 2 walls. There is currently 1 post in the middle ( 3 metres ) ? If thats it then I would leave the post where it is or just break it off ( and make good ) and instead of having 2 x 3 metre bays of fence I would put in 2 new...