1997 radiators and TRVs

[Pangloss]

I have Myson radiators that were installed in 1997. The radiator bleeders are much smaller than modern ones; about 6mm diameter, with square drive.
The boiler is a Potterton Suprima 60, I think that means I have an open vented system.
The TRVs are Myson but are a special intermediate version which means the valves are not properly compatible with modern Myson TRV II 2 way heads. I get regulation between the O symbol and the I symbol, then full on from then on.

My problems are;
The plastic collars have started failing on the old TRV heads
The builders didn't fit a TRV on the radiator in the main bathroom meaning it is full on when the CH is on.
The radiators have started leaking around the radiator bleeders one radiator is starting to corrode in this area.

I have the following questions;

Will it be possible without draining the whole system to:

-fit a TRV to the bathroom radiator?
-to replace a TRV on an existing radiator?
-remove a radiator bleeder without flooding the room?

I am slightly more confident about the bleeder because I think that it might be possible to set the TRV to 0 and close the shut-off valve. Or would that risk introducing air into the system and make things worse?

Do you think it might be possible to fix the leaking radiator bleeders by wrapping PTFE tape around the thread?

If I need to pay somebody to do these jobs, does anyone know how much it might cost?

If so, can anybody recommend somebody reliable near Solihull? I have done a search and can't find any plumbers in my area using the search function. I have had the misfortune to encounter a rip-off merchant last time I tried to get professional help.

 

[muggles]

Will it be possible without draining the whole system to:

-fit a TRV to the bathroom radiator?
Theoretically yes, but not really a DIY job for someone who isn't confident
-to replace a TRV on an existing radiator?
Theoretically yes, but not really a DIY job for someone who isn't confident
-remove a radiator bleeder without flooding the room?
Yes, turn off the radiator valves, drain a bit of water out of the radiator into a tub, then remove the vent and replace

We don't quote prices on here as we can't see the job and hourly rates vary depending on where you live

 

[Whitespirit66]

If you are getting several rads leaking and corroding, make sure your system isn't pumping over.

Put the heating on, and have a look at the f&E (smallest) loft tank, to see if water is coming out of the vent pipe that curves over the top of the tank.

 

[MrGassafe]

I have Myson radiators that were installed in 1997.

My problems are;
The plastic collars have started failing on the old TRV heads
The builders didn't fit a TRV on the radiator in the main bathroom meaning it is full on when the CH is on.
The radiators have started leaking around the radiator bleeders one radiator is starting to corrode in this area.

I have the following questions;

Will it be possible without draining the whole system to:

-fit a TRV to the bathroom radiator?
-to replace a TRV on an existing radiator?
-remove a radiator bleeder without flooding the room?


If I need to pay somebody to do these jobs, does anyone know how much it might cost?
.

you should get the lot replaced. The new trvs would be about £15 each
and in your area the labour around £20 per hour

should be about 5hrs max to drain off and fit new new trvs abd also
refill the system.
So about £100 + the cost of how many trvs to replace.

 

[Whitespirit66]

So about £100 + the cost of how many trvs to replace.

If you can get 5 hours work out of a good plumber for £100, not worth DIYing. Must be lots of competition in some areas.

 

[muggles]

£20 an hour!? Are people really that desperate for work?

 

[Agile]

Mr GasSafe seems to have a rather low expectation of rates charged across the country.

Unless you can get Iron Naz then I would expect that you would need to pay about £25-£35 per hour if you found anyone willing to do the work on an hourly basis ( and spend all day on it too! ).

My method of quoting is to charge a fixed fee for draining and refilling and then a fixed price per valve to be changed. That works out at rather more than £20 per valve but does isolate the owner from any problems that take longer than hoped for ( like squashed pipes ).

 

[Pangloss]

I am very grateful for all the replies. I didn't expect to get any quotes in the forum but it's still very nice to have an idea of how much I might have to pay.

If anyone knows any plumbers in Westmidlands who might be able to help me it would be a great help.

it's normally a good idea to get local recommendations but the rip-off merchant I mentioned was recommended by friends. I am sure that if you are a sufficiently good con artist, not only will you get away with ripping ill-informed people off, you will get them to recommend you to others as well.

 

[JohnD]

with the amount of work you have to do, it will be more straightforward to drain it.

You might like to bale all the mud out of the F&E tank first, and run a sludge-removing chemical before you do the drain

I'd change all the valves and all the bleed nipples while you're at it, they're all the same age, after all.

The rad in the room with the room stat should be the one with no TRV. You have got a room, stat, haven't you?

 

[Pangloss]

with the amount of work you have to do, it will be more straightforward to drain it.

The rad in the room with the room stat should be the one with no TRV. You have got a room, stat, haven't you?

Yes, the builders were kind enough to provide a room stat in the hall along with a radiator with no TRV.

I asked them why there was no TRV in the main bathroom. I was informed it was so it could act as a bypass "to balance the system"

A few years ago I took the opportunity of asking the man from Centrica who had come to fix the boiler whether that made any sense. He said no and pointed out to me the automatic bypass in the airing cupboard.

The current situation is when the central heating is on the bathroom is tropical. I am sure that is costing me money but probably not enough to justify fitting the TRV as a stand-alone job.

What with the "nipples" the failing TRVs and the three port valve I have coaxed back into temporary life, it makes it worth getting a professional in to do the lot including getting rid of the crud and draining the system.

The problem is don't know where I can find a central heating plumber who I can trust to do the job at an honest price.

 

[HERTS P&D]

The problem is don't know where I can find a central heating plumber who I can trust to do the job at an honest price.

Write down what you want to have done, phone 3 plumbers/heating engineers and get 3 quotes.

Always ask friends or family for recommendations.

Andy

 

[Agile]

I dont make free visits for small routine jobs but instead give a budgetary quote over the phone!

If you ask them what they expect to charge over the phone you will get a pretty good idea of their attitude and charges.

Tony

 

[abcgascare]

You cant change with out draining .
Why not clean your system first Buy some cleaner put it in your tank then run it a month clean out the crap .then drop the system .go on screwfix buy new valves but if you can get a plumber for £20 hour get one he will do it while your thinking about it tools method etc .
New rads are dirt cheap again screw fix delivered but clean system is a happy system if your loosing water then your draging in new water with oxygen in it oxygen corrods rads ,after doing any work put 2 lots of inhibitor in ,It works 2 ways you drop your water you get rid of some of your silt or oxide thats why I would put cleaner in a month before you do job to get rid of more ,probably not helping you but some one may read it ,Garry

 

[abcgascare]

By Pass is not a problem get a adjustable spanner & reduce flow do a bit at a time I norm fully close then open up a little bit at a time & you can adjust summer winter .