Bare walls, options to replace....

[spacey3]

We have taken the lime plaster off the walls, it was blown in various places, so now we are just left with brickwork.

I have installed wall ties and will be placing pipe work etc getting ready for, what I thought, replying a lime render then plastering the walls.

However, since it is difficult to find people and also a time consuming operation (costs too) to get some capable to render a wall with lime before plastering I was given a few options.

The first is of course rendering them with a lime base then multi finish or lime plastering the final coat.

The second option was to just plasterboard straight on to the walls

The third was to use insulated plasterboard straight on to the walls.

Now I really am not sure which I prefer of the second or third options of either so I wanted to ask..and see what people thought.

 

[JohnD]

below the South Downs, where the ground is chalky, lime was used a lot, and there is a local practice of using a sand and cement render on the walls, followed by a hard gypsum skim.

My guess is that it was adopted when lime became "old fashioned"

It is quite easy to work with.

You may need to look for a wrinkled old plasterer. There are a few who specialise in lime work, and will be busy in old houses and churches.

p.s.
If you go for drylining I would want to incorporate internal insulation, which may be very useful in a cold old house.

 

[spacey3]

I'm not using cement anywhere, the house is too old for cement and the bricks are far too soft. Even the structural engineer that came round said no to cement.

We already have cavity wall insulation so not sure if you will gain much benefit of using the insulated plasterboard. However, would probably agree and use that because you can always hide the services behind them.

It would probably be considerably less to use the plasterboard insulated or not rather than have someone plaster the walls with the lime render/plaster way.

I have some reservations though, I am not sure the plasterboard route gives the wall a solid feel, also (and I may be wrong) the plastering will hold the old brickwork together somewhat rather then just plaster boarding.

 

[Gerrydelasel]

I would go for insulated plasterboard. Yes, it sounds like a naff choice compared with the original plaster, but the practicality of putting it up, hiding pipes, automatically getting a nice flat surface, and the insulation, make it wort it IMO. It WILL make the place warmer, despite the cavity wall insulation.

 

[spacey3]

I would go for insulated plasterboard. Yes, it sounds like a naff choice compared with the original plaster, but the practicality of putting it up, hiding pipes, automatically getting a nice flat surface, and the insulation, make it wort it IMO. It WILL make the place warmer, despite the cavity wall insulation.

It does sound naff, that is my concern. It is practical to us the board with the insulation because it can allow you the ease and simplicity of putting it up, you do get a level surface easily. I agree with everything you have said, I am still not sure....

One other point, does the drywall with the insulation sound hollow when on the bare brick?

 

[Gerrydelasel]

One other point, does the drywall with the insulation sound hollow when on the bare brick?

Yes it does, somewhat, if you knock on it (unless you're lucky enough to hit a dab of adhesive). But it's not that bad, it doesn't sound paper thin or anything, more like thick wood.

 

[spacey3]

Still not sure....ok let me ask you this then, which version of the boards would you go for? Gyproc do three a basic, mid and top of the range. Also in various thicknesses, all with 9.5mm drywall attached.

 

[chappers]

As you already have cavity wall insulation then probably basic or mid range, to get it level it is essentially glued to the walls with a drywall adhesive.
You say the walls are too old and soft to take cement, yet are of cavity construction, how old is the house.
As you have found lime plastering is costly as it is a specialist trade and is also time consuming, have you thought of floating with hardwall and skimming

 

[spacey3]

As you already have cavity wall insulation then probably basic or mid range, to get it level it is essentially glued to the walls with a drywall adhesive.
You say the walls are too old and soft to take cement, yet are of cavity construction, how old is the house.
As you have found lime plastering is costly as it is a specialist trade and is also time consuming, have you thought of floating with hardwall and skimming

No, whats a floating hardwall?

Lime rendering and then plastering is costly just in the materials, which is why it is off putting. NHL 3.5 is around £7 a bag (if you get a pallet) and then plastering sand on top of that. Then either lime plaster or some multi finish to skim it off.

It does give the wall some solid feel to it.

Just out of curiosity, when they build new houses what do they do to the internal walls? Are they all drywall? Or thermolite and then plasterboard and skim?

With regards to the basic or mid range, what size would you go for? 27mm? or 30mm or 35 or 40 for that matter?

 

[chappers]

hardwall is a gypsum based backing plaster.
Most newbuilds are dot and dabbed plasterboard and skimmed.
I would go for the thickest that you can afford with regards to the reduced space in the room and costs and obviously just do the outside walls, no point insulating between internal rooms.

 

[stevethespreader]

As you already have cavity wall insulation then probably basic or mid range, to get it level it is essentially glued to the walls with a drywall adhesive.
You say the walls are too old and soft to take cement, yet are of cavity construction, how old is the house.
As you have found lime plastering is costly as it is a specialist trade and is also time consuming, have you thought of floating with hardwall and skimming

No, whats a floating hardwall?

Lime rendering and then plastering is costly just in the materials, which is why it is off putting. NHL 3.5 is around £7 a bag (if you get a pallet) and then plastering sand on top of that. Then either lime plaster or some multi finish to skim it off.

It does give the wall some solid feel to it.

Just out of curiosity, when they build new houses what do they do to the internal walls? Are they all drywall? Or thermolite and then plasterboard and skim?

With regards to the basic or mid range, what size would you go for? 27mm? or 30mm or 35 or 40 for that matter?

Any spread should be able to float 3.5 its supposed to have the same consistency of s&c you also have cavity walls I see no reason why you cannot lay skim over the 3.5

 

[London Mike 49]

Here is a link to the plasterers forum , they have a section dedicated to the public looking for plasterers and if you post your situation on there they will be able to put you in touch with someone in your area.

http://www.plasterersforum.com/

Good luck
Mike

 

[chappers]

As you already have cavity wall insulation then probably basic or mid range, to get it level it is essentially glued to the walls with a drywall adhesive.
You say the walls are too old and soft to take cement, yet are of cavity construction, how old is the house.
As you have found lime plastering is costly as it is a specialist trade and is also time consuming, have you thought of floating with hardwall and skimming

No, whats a floating hardwall?

Lime rendering and then plastering is costly just in the materials, which is why it is off putting. NHL 3.5 is around £7 a bag (if you get a pallet) and then plastering sand on top of that. Then either lime plaster or some multi finish to skim it off.

It does give the wall some solid feel to it.

Just out of curiosity, when they build new houses what do they do to the internal walls? Are they all drywall? Or thermolite and then plasterboard and skim?

With regards to the basic or mid range, what size would you go for? 27mm? or 30mm or 35 or 40 for that matter?

Any spread should be able to float 3.5 its supposed to have the same consistency of s&c you also have cavity walls I see no reason why you cannot lay skim over the 3.5

True enough but there's more to it than just putting it on the walls, with regards to timings, dealing with cracking etc as it cures, old school spreads would have this knowledge, but many others wouldn't hence why it is fast becoming a specialist trade