Bathroom wiring solution required ???

[barrymason]

Hello,

I wonder if any experts out there could throw some light ('scuse the pun) on a particular wiring solution for my bathroom?

What I would like to do is have the following electrical items controlled...

4x colour changing LED down-lights (on the lighting circuit) - ref GAP L-4APP-W
1x under floor heating - ref Ambient HML100 - 100w (includes thermostatic controller)
1x extractor fan with timer and humidity sensor - ref Environment design SILDES100HT

I am not keen on any pull chord or switch inside the bathroom so Im quite happy to have the switch(es) on the outside wall. However I would be interested in an elegant touch sensitive system inside the bathroom (but I assume this is complicated and expensive?).

I am advised the LED (GU10) bulbs operate off 240 mains (so no transformer)?

Ideally I would like the fan to come on with the light and stay on (and switch off with the timer / humidify sensor after the light has been switched off). But I would like to be able to switch the fan on if the light is not switched on (e.g. during daylight).

I am thinking that I need a three gang? 3 way? switch to control the 3 things?

1 switch for lights / fan
1 switch for fan
1 switch for heated floor

I envisage on the wall, the switches would look like [□□□] + [floor thermostat]?

My query really relates to how the heck do I do this?

I would be grateful for any advice on this or a contact for a professional who might offer this as a service (£?).

I thought Id ask this question as I am not sure that my chosen bathroom fitter will necessarily know how to do this?

If I can provide any more information about this to the gurus out there then please let me know?

Thanks in advance

 

[EFLImpudence]

I thought Id ask this question as I am not sure that my chosen bathroom fitter will necessarily know how to do this?

You need a different one , then.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I agree with EFLI, or rather - use the bathroom fitter to do what his title tells you = fitting bathrooms.

For the rest, you'll need a registered electrician who can visit the site and discuss your (as yet) not really defined needs. He may need to be registered as some electrical work in bathrooms is notifiable (it depends what it is and where). More details in the WIKI.-

 

[barrymason]

Ok, well at least this is advice of sorts.
I think what I am also asking is, is all of what Im asking for a realistic expectation?

 

[DaveHerns]

100w heating isn't going to keep you warm or is it just to keep the chill off your feet when walking barefooted?
My daughter in law has an aversion to pull cord switches but I can't see why....

 

[Taylortwocities]

Everything that you envisage is possible.

My query really relates to how the heck do I do this?

Given your lack of knowledge (with respect) I dont see how you could possibly do this, some of it is complicated. How it is done will depend a lot on what is there, and how it is laid out.

I would be grateful for any advice on this or a contact for a professional who might offer this as a service (£?).

Get a recommendation from a friend/neighbour for a sparky who enjoys thinking and likes a challenge.
There is a list of registered electricians at http://www.electricalcompetentperson.co.uk
type in your postcode and select a good-looking one!

 

[barrymason]

I admit Im no electrician, Im not expecting to do the work myself, but would like to understand the details and be able to realistically spec it out etc. The bathroom is getting completely refitted so effectively a blank slate. I thought Id take advantage of this websites abundance of knowledge not necessarily for the answer but for preliminary advice (which I am already happily receiving) before embarking on the ultimate task of finding the right contractor. So far so good

100w floor heater is only to take the chill off the floor tiles (on cold days).

Pull cords, so old fashioned.

 

[ericmark]

I will start with the fan. The regulations I think Part F do say if there is natural light and no opening window then using only the light switch is not good enough. There are a host of ways around the problem from using a motion sensor to double pole switches. The amount of air extracted is also a problem for every litre of air out there must also be a litre of air in.

Again there are many ways of replacing the air from spaces under the door to using heat recovery unit. In some houses open flues can cause a problem where extractor fans can suck in combustion products from coal, wood and gas fires not using a balanced flue.

This leads into the next subject under floor heating. Sucking warm air out of the room will mean cold air may replace it and using under floor heating in my mothers wet room which the air was replaced from the cold hall when the floor was about as hot as one could get it and still walk on it with bare feet it would not warm the room enough. Even the 150W lights (GU10) where not enough to keep room warm. It needed the 250W of floor heating plus 250W approx of towel rail plus 150W of lighting all added together to get room warm enough. Also the underfloor heating failed many times so in the end larger towel rail fitted and under floor heating abandoned.

We have now also swapped to LED lights but shower now also no longer used mother goes to old peoples care centre to use bath now.

The edge on the wall was covered with switches

you can see the 5 sets of switches past the chairlift arm.

And of course you live in Wales so Part P is more of a problem.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You have already had the best possible advice, employ a competent electrician and they will spec it out for you. Then you can put feet up with cupa and bickies! No point you trying to design something you have very little knowledge of, of course you can come here and ask questions, but difficult to answer questions, when complexed answers maybe given that you may not comprehend. You need and on-site visit to access what is really required by someone how knows more about electrics than fitting bathrooms.

 

[barrymason]

I will start with the fan. The regulations I think Part F do say if there is natural light and no opening window then using only the light switch is not good enough. There are a host of ways around the problem from using a motion sensor to double pole switches. The amount of air extracted is also a problem for every litre of air out there must also be a litre of air in.

IGNIWYTA

Again there are many ways of replacing the air from spaces under the door to using heat recovery unit. In some houses open flues can cause a problem where extractor fans can suck in combustion products from coal, wood and gas fires not using a balanced flue.

WTF

Again there are many ways of replacing the air from spaces under the door to using heat recovery unit. In some houses open flues can cause a problem where extractor fans can suck in combustion products from coal, wood and gas fires not using a balanced flue.

HMMM

This leads into the next subject under floor heating. Sucking warm air out of the room will mean cold air may replace it and using under floor heating in my mothers wet room which the air was replaced from the cold hall when the floor was about as hot as one could get it and still walk on it with bare feet it would not warm the room enough. Even the 150W lights (GU10) where not enough to keep room warm. It needed the 250W of floor heating plus 250W approx of towel rail plus 150W of lighting all added together to get room warm enough. Also the underfloor heating failed many times so in the end larger towel rail fitted and under floor heating abandoned.

MNS

We have now also swapped to LED lights but shower now also no longer used mother goes to old peoples care centre to use bath now.

FO
______________
DIYNOT.COM SIO

 

[bernardgreen]

Again there are many ways of replacing the air from spaces under the door to using heat recovery unit. In some houses open flues can cause a problem where extractor fans can suck in combustion products from coal, wood and gas fires not using a balanced flue.

WTF

If if the bathroom extracter fan is blowing air out of the house then other air has to come into the house to replace it. If the only other opening to the outside is a chimney or a flue then the replacement air will come into the house via that chimney or flue. If there is a fire using that chimney or flue then the fumes and smoke will come into the house and not go out. Smoke you can see, the fumes are the invisible and silent killers.

 

[JohnW2]

IGNIWYTA ... WTF ... HMMM ... MNS ... FO
DIYNOT.COM SIO

Inevitably, some responses to questions here are more straightforward, relevant and comprehensible to a non-electrician than others, and various of the regulars have their own unique styles - but that is true of any on-line forum, so one just has to accept that, and concentrate on responses that seem relevant and which one can understand. You have received some simple and understandable advice, and I would say it is all correct. Unfortunately, beyond telling you that everything you want is theoretically feasible, and quite probably realistic, there's not a lot we can tell/advise you from afar - it needs an electrician who knows what he is doing to actually look at the situation and advise you as to what is possible and/or advisable. I realise that's less help than you were hoping for, but it's probably the best that we can do.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

IGNIWYTA ... WTF ... HMMM ... MNS ... FO
DIYNOT.COM SIO

IICYIAD?

 

[DaveHerns]

I don't know what most of those mean. Maybe it's because I'm old fashioned . I must be as I have pull cords (not pull chords!)

 

[winston1]

Pull cords, so old fashioned.

Not as old fashioned as a switch outside the door that someone may turn off while you are in the shower or bath.