BEST STUFF TO STOP RE-GROWTH

[Belboz]

Hello all,

As part of what is fast becoming a long-term project, I have been preparing my back garden for some new fencing.

As part of my prep, I have had to cut back a very substantial amount of plants/bushes which have grown through into my garden from the (unkept) jungle next door.

I have been careful only to cut back to the boundary so have pruned back anything which was growing into my garden.

However, I now have several bushes with cut ends which I know will start to sprout again if left untreated. Ultimately, this will mean they will start to push against the new fence (as and when I erect it)

How do I treat the cut ends of the bushes to stop any re-growth? I have read several posts involving engine oil/paint stripper/copper nails etc. etc. but I am not looking to kill the bushes (they belong to the neighbours) - just to stop any new growth from the places I have cut back.

As always, your views will be very much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Diyisfun]

You cant, it will re grow from the next bud/shoot down the stem, then from the root itself

 

[HERTS P&D]

See Below:

http://www.tesco.com/groceries/product/details/?id=272337940

Vinegar is a natural product, usually derived from grain, apples or grapes. It is distilled through a fermentation process. The vinegar you buy is typically labeled at 5% acidity. This means it contains 5% acetic acid, the active ingredient.

Acetic acid is what makes vinegar a weed killer. Actually, it makes vinegar a plant killer. Acetic acid, from any source, will kill most vegetation because it draws all the moisture out of the leaf.

It is fast. Spraying full strength vinegar on a plant in full sun will often result in a withered, brown plant in only a few hours, for sensitive weeds, or by the next day in tougher plants.

It is non-selective, meaning it might kill everything it touches. This limits the usefulness of a vinegar weed killer, to the extent that you are able to control overspray that would get on desirable plants.

Andy

 

[Diyisfun]

See Below:

http://www.tesco.com/groceries/product/details/?id=272337940

Vinegar is a natural product, usually derived from grain, apples or grapes. It is distilled through a fermentation process. The vinegar you buy is typically labeled at 5% acidity. This means it contains 5% acetic acid, the active ingredient.

Acetic acid is what makes vinegar a weed killer. Actually, it makes vinegar a plant killer. Acetic acid, from any source, will kill most vegetation because it draws all the moisture out of the leaf.

It is fast. Spraying full strength vinegar on a plant in full sun will often result in a withered, brown plant in only a few hours, for sensitive weeds, or by the next day in tougher plants.

It is non-selective, meaning it might kill everything it touches. This limits the usefulness of a vinegar weed killer, to the extent that you are able to control overspray that would get on desirable plants.

Andy

I read his post as 'he wants to stop it growing from the tip that has been cut', not kill the plant.

 

[WalksWithTurkeys]

See Below:

http://www.tesco.com/groceries/product/details/?id=272337940

Vinegar is a natural product, usually derived from grain, apples or grapes. It is distilled through a fermentation process. The vinegar you buy is typically labeled at 5% acidity. This means it contains 5% acetic acid, the active ingredient.

Acetic acid is what makes vinegar a weed killer. Actually, it makes vinegar a plant killer. Acetic acid, from any source, will kill most vegetation because it draws all the moisture out of the leaf.

It is fast. Spraying full strength vinegar on a plant in full sun will often result in a withered, brown plant in only a few hours, for sensitive weeds, or by the next day in tougher plants.

It is non-selective, meaning it might kill everything it touches. This limits the usefulness of a vinegar weed killer, to the extent that you are able to control overspray that would get on desirable plants.

Andy

And the point of your post is?

If he kills the neighbours plants, he is liable for the damage caused.

I have some plants next to a fence. The holly did not cause any problems. The wiegela caused no problems. The buddleja caused no problems. All were mature. The sycamore did cause problems, as the trunk pushed the fence aside as it grew, which is why I removed it. I think you are alright with shrubs. I suspect if the neighbours shrubs damage your fence, they are liable, but I am not sure, and proving it and getting compensation would be hard.

 

[Belboz]

Thanks for the replies.

As stated, I don't want to kill any of the bushes - I just want to ensure that they don't start growing again towards my garden thus pushing the fence.

If they won't start growing from the cut ends again then fine. I will just keep an eye on it and ensure that any new growth elsewhere on the plant isn't coming my way.

 

[Ouch77]

It's probably a bit late now, but if you partially cut the bigger branches that are growing into your property and bend them back on themselves, then in theory they'd then grow in the opposite direction - kinda like laying a hedge.

I've not tried this, but it would be worth a pop I'd think..

 

[Belboz]

Thanks Ouch but already done!

Just have to see what happens in the next few weeks.....

 

[munchingB]

you can train a plant with proper pruning but its something that you or your neighbour are going to have to be pretty vigilant about and attend to it at least twice a year.

prune the plants back to an upward facing shoot/lateral and thats the direction that it will grow in, let the new shoots grow and cut them when they start heading your way, to an upward facing shoot.

would help to know what these plants are as not all shrubs produce growth once you have cut them back into their old wood, conifers, ceanothus etc..