Im trying to remake some brake pipes for my XR3 resto, I have the originals to copy, but I am struggling to get a decent flare on the end of the pipe. I have bought a MACHINE MART pipe flarer, http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht172-automotive-pipe-flaring-kit and have a roll of original FORD brake pipe which is coated steel, The flaring tool didnt seem to like the steel pipe, so i bought some "CUPRO-NICKEL" pipe from a motor factors as this is a softer material, But still cannot get a good flare with the Flaring tool. Has anyone any experience or tips they can share with me on making brake pipes, and ESPECIALLY flaring the ends.
Brake pipe flaring help
- Thread starter efiste2
- Start date
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Sorry not used that particular flaring tool. I'm more familiar with this one.
http://www.uktools.com/product_info...d=445&osCsid=30c54d6b30e8bccbae3d0c01fb35a8cc
I found some tips on using your one though, http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html
http://www.uktools.com/product_info...d=445&osCsid=30c54d6b30e8bccbae3d0c01fb35a8cc
I found some tips on using your one though, http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html
Those flairing tools are crap, they don't do a good job with "kunifer" they do a bloody awfull job with bundy. I have a "Snapon" flairing tool similar to your and thats no good.
I think you might better going to a small garage and get them to flair the pipes for you. The tool that Stivino uses are brilliant, also Sykes Pickavant do a hydraulic flairing tool that is hand held and can be used under the car.
I think you might better going to a small garage and get them to flair the pipes for you. The tool that Stivino uses are brilliant, also Sykes Pickavant do a hydraulic flairing tool that is hand held and can be used under the car.
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these tools are only good for copper pipe,the pukka jobs are hundreds of pounds and not very portable,use copper as neo says,i always do
I bought one of these kits from Camberley Auto Factors; used it carefully on square cut, deburred lubricated copper pipe. All I got was leaking joints.
Camberley Auto Factors refused to refund my money on the flaring kit; they claimed I had had all the use I wanted out of it and wanted a refund just because I didn't need to use it again.
So I was left with a useless tool, and needing to find another motor factor. They won't be getting my business again.
Camberley Auto Factors refused to refund my money on the flaring kit; they claimed I had had all the use I wanted out of it and wanted a refund just because I didn't need to use it again.
So I was left with a useless tool, and needing to find another motor factor. They won't be getting my business again.
What problems are you having with the flares ? I've used the snap-on tool, similar to the one you've bought, for years, It can be quite difficult to make good flares on steel pipe, the pipe can tend to push through the clamp rather than form a flare. With the cupro alloy pipe i've not had problems. Ensure you are forming the correct type flare, and don't try to hard to make it look perfect, i find that when fitted and the nut tightened (do not over tighten) the flare will take the correct shape and seal up (try a couple and see what happens) As said above make sure the pipe is cut square, use a mini pipe cutter, and deburred.
the problems im having with both steel and the cupra-nickel type piping, is that either the steel pipe slips through the clamp, or because the collet is too loose a fit it moves about and creates a very small uneven flare, and the next size collet uo is too large to fit inside the pipe. You may well be right in the fact that im trying to get a picture-perfect one, or an exact match to the factory finished one that came off the car........I will persist and try a few more, the take some pics to show you whats happening, these are the ones that came off the car, some off which will be going back on as they just need a clean up, But the underside pipes will need renewing.........Thanks sticking with me on this.............
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