Cladding a wooden structure.

[MisterBoy]

From my project thread I want to part-clad this 5x3m wooden superstructure as a sort of garden room. Lots of windows on the visible sides, mostly cladding on the north side and one end.

The idea is the cladded sections would be insulated effectively stud-walls, with exterior cladding. Initially I thought I'd just put decent cladding boards directly on the outside of the structure, but I'm wondering if it might be better and/or cheaper to clad the exterior with ply/OSB boards first and then put the cladding on more as a decorative/rainproofing layer. Made me think I could use thinner cladding boards and it would be less drafty, as well as providing more rigidity and maybe not needing to put as many additional studs (the main structure is 6x3" timber essentially 1.5x1.5m squares with corner bracings).

Is an initial cheap cladding layer a good idea and if so any advice on materials/process? BTW that chimney will be removed

 

[Notch7]

you could cover the timber work with a breathable membrane like tyvek housewrap

then fit softwood battens like 50 x 25 vertically

that creates a wind tight structure, with a cavity so any water getting through will run out without penetrating.

then fit timber cladding

 

[MisterBoy]

I presume you you mean battens to stud out the spacings between the main uprights, wrap with membrane (staples?) then the cladding nails straight through the membrane into the timber?
And then internal foam insulation inside the studs between membrane and internal wall?

 

[Notch7]

I presume you you mean battens to stud out the spacings between the main uprights, wrap with membrane (staples?) then the cladding nails straight through the membrane into the timber?
And then internal foam insulation inside the studs between membrane and internal wall?

you will of course need studwork between the main uprights
then membrane
then 50 x 25 battens then cladding

if using tyvek housewrap then you can use staples and they have a special tape to go over all joints -to form a full seal

internally use insulation in between the studwork

if your structure is a bit wobbly then you should clad in sheathing ply, then membrane, then battens, then cladding

 

[Jake2021]

Have you thought about composit cladding?

 

[MisterBoy]

Oh yes that's what I was clarifying if you meant external battens to the membrane, @Notch7 thanks. Lots of layers!

@Jake2021 I have never heard of it until now - it looks like this is very similar to the modern plastic laminate flooring? We've used that before but I think I want to go with a real wood finish aesthetically here.

 

[Jake2021]

Timber is fine but go for quality as you will regret it over the winter months.

PVC has come a
Long way or composite should
I say you can get wood grain effect on wood colour , also make fence panels in the stuff

I can appreciate composite isn’t for everyone but I would definitely
Have a look at it even to rule it out , ceded is very expensive so anything that is treated and protected will suit… I go to the timber yard for mine and buy it as the quality is better and if your buying x amount they usually do you a deal
Thanks
Jake

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Last time I checked, Marley weatherboard was cheaper than uPVC.

 

[MisterBoy]

Timber is fine but go for quality as you will regret it over the winter months.

Should I view timber cladding as temporary to be replaced in X years, or should it last indefinitely if treated properly?

 

[Jake2021]

Nothing is permanent but it's not just about treating it, it's also about the quality of the cut timber, trees it's from etc. Example would be a lot of b and q timber has knots, twisted and cracks. It's also the process of how the manufacturers treat the timber and where they store it.
You also need to think about Tong and groove, ship all stand the quality of the joints. All timber shrinks but cheap stuff will leave gaps.

Treating timber preserved life of the timber but eventually it will fail.due to our weather, example would be fence panels they last a.while when treated but eventually they will rot.

 

[MisterBoy]

Last time I checked, Marley weatherboard was cheaper than uPVC.

Not seen this before, Marley and A.N.Other concrete fibreboard seem to be a bit cheaper than composite and potentially a fair bit cheaper than shiplap, though I don't know if shiplap is the best like-for-like obviously there are cheaper wood options.

The Marley Cedral kit seems quite nice with all the profiles and so on. Bit of a bind having to screw every board maybe? Most of us are probably reasonably familiar with wood - we know how it tends to behave - is there a learning curve for something like this or do you basically just treat them like boards?