Connecting electric Hob and Oven

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Hi all, I'm a newbee so sorry if topic already covered but lots of different info so just to say my scenario :LOL:

Just moved into a new house with a Oven wall connection plate with 45A DP wall switch higher up (no additional socket).

The radial cable if fed straight from the 'old type' 32A hard wired fuse consumer unit. The wire looks to me like it is 10mm grey T&E but I need to confirm it is not 6mm as its a possibility?

My new Hob has a max rating of 6.5Kw and the single oven is 2.5Kw so a potential unlikely max of 9Kw similar to a shower I guess.
The Hob instructions say to use 2.5mm cable less than 2M long but no size quoted for the Oven?

The wall plate has a hole at the bottom but it looks tight to wire both cables into so I have two thoughts:

1) As both appliances have terminal connections on the back, wire the Oven to the hob first then wire the Hob to the wall plate. If so do I need to beef this up from 2.5 to say 4mm?
2) Use a heavy duty junction box like used for tails?

If the potential max current is 37.5A (9000W/240v) then I assume the 32A fuse would be about right as can't they handle a lot more and better for it to blow that a fuse too big?

This must happen a lot so what do most people do? :?: Any experts willing to point me in the right direction greatly appreciated!! Cheers
 
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The radial cable if fed straight from the 'old type' 32A hard wired fuse consumer unit. The wire looks to me like it is 10mm grey T&E but I need to confirm it is not 6mm as its a possibility?
See here for cable sizes to be sure.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:cable_types:flatpvccables

The wall plate has a hole at the bottom but it looks tight to wire both cables into so I have two thoughts:
There will be room but you can get them with two outlets.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Cooker+Outlet+Plate/p87053

1) As both appliances have terminal connections on the back, wire the Oven to the hob first then wire the Hob to the wall plate. If so do I need to beef this up from 2.5 to say 4mm?
Better as above.
2) Use a heavy duty junction box like used for tails?
No.

As the cables are only protected by the 32A mcb then you should use 4mm² cable for both the oven and the hob.
You may hear/read arguments that the (smaller) cable cannot be overloaded but there are other considerations so I will not advise you to ignore overload protection for the sake of a length of cable.

If the potential max current is 37.5A (9000W/240v) then I assume the 32A fuse would be about right as can't they handle a lot more and better for it to blow that a fuse too big?
32A will be alright but for the opposite reason -
that the oven and hob will not be using full load because of thermostats cycling on and off.

This we call diversity.
For cookers it is the first 10A plus 30% of the remainder. 10A + (27.5 x 0.3) = 18.5A (only)

If the load were 37.5A constant, as with a shower, then definitely do not overload the mcb.

This must happen a lot so what do most people do?
As above.
 
Get yourself a dual outlet cooker plate. Connect both hob and oven up with 4mm² (preferably flex) if you can get the flex into the oven. If not the nature of the oven load should limit the current draw on the smaller flex you might have to use (2.5mm²)
Although your total load is greater than 32A with diversity (cycling of the various elements) you should be ok.
 
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Hey guys thanks a bunch for the quick and clear replies!
I have found the dual outlet made by click polar and hopefully
Will now make the job a lot easier and will use 4mm from each.
:D
 

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