Morning - I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction for some troubleshooting with this one.....
Normal open vented central heating/hot water system - Honeywell "Y-Plan" I think - Honeywell controller, 3-way valve (V4073A), hot water tank/stat, room stat, etc.
A couple of weeks ago, we realised that our HW, which is normally "adequately hot", was now scolding hot. Immediately checked the 3-way valve (as I wondered if it was stuck "open" to HW) and found a couple of things that didn’t seem right (still with CH and HW "on" according to the controller):
1- the manual arm on the valve (which I believe shows what position the valve is in?) was fully towards the end marked "manual"; the arm could be moved from the end marked "manual" to the end marked "auto" quite freely, and remain where left - no resistance to movement, and it would also therefore appear, no effect on the valve position.
2- switch the HW to "off" on the controller made/makes no difference to the position of the arm on the valve.
3- switching off the Power to the whole CH system, and the arm moves (via the return spring? - as there's no power....) towards the end marked "auto" (not quite fully to the end). With the power still off, you can move the arm back toward the "manual" end, but this meets with some resistance, and when you release the arm, it re-sets itself back to the position nearer the "auto" end (again on the spring?)
4- switching the power to the CH system back on, and the arm moves fully (e.g. is powered) back towards the end marked "manual" - and then we're back to the situation described in 1- above.....
The HW tank thermostat, if moved, "clicks" when the moved to a high position (60-80), so it seems it's detecting the higher water temperature - and I would assume therefore, that it's working....
So, can I ask - does the description above suggest that the 3-way valve is actually working o.k.? If no, then should I simply buy a new one, and replace the power head first, and if that doesn't solve it, replace the whole valve (which of course will mean draining the system down....
)
Or have I gone off on the wrong track completely, and there's likely to be another reason for the constant scolding hot water? Any advice on other troubleshooting that I can do....??
Many thanks,
Normal open vented central heating/hot water system - Honeywell "Y-Plan" I think - Honeywell controller, 3-way valve (V4073A), hot water tank/stat, room stat, etc.
A couple of weeks ago, we realised that our HW, which is normally "adequately hot", was now scolding hot. Immediately checked the 3-way valve (as I wondered if it was stuck "open" to HW) and found a couple of things that didn’t seem right (still with CH and HW "on" according to the controller):
1- the manual arm on the valve (which I believe shows what position the valve is in?) was fully towards the end marked "manual"; the arm could be moved from the end marked "manual" to the end marked "auto" quite freely, and remain where left - no resistance to movement, and it would also therefore appear, no effect on the valve position.
2- switch the HW to "off" on the controller made/makes no difference to the position of the arm on the valve.
3- switching off the Power to the whole CH system, and the arm moves (via the return spring? - as there's no power....) towards the end marked "auto" (not quite fully to the end). With the power still off, you can move the arm back toward the "manual" end, but this meets with some resistance, and when you release the arm, it re-sets itself back to the position nearer the "auto" end (again on the spring?)
4- switching the power to the CH system back on, and the arm moves fully (e.g. is powered) back towards the end marked "manual" - and then we're back to the situation described in 1- above.....
The HW tank thermostat, if moved, "clicks" when the moved to a high position (60-80), so it seems it's detecting the higher water temperature - and I would assume therefore, that it's working....
So, can I ask - does the description above suggest that the 3-way valve is actually working o.k.? If no, then should I simply buy a new one, and replace the power head first, and if that doesn't solve it, replace the whole valve (which of course will mean draining the system down....
) Or have I gone off on the wrong track completely, and there's likely to be another reason for the constant scolding hot water? Any advice on other troubleshooting that I can do....??
Many thanks,
