Contactum RCD socket not working

[Mnx100]

Hi all, looking for some advice….I had a Contactum RCD socket fitted in the garage professionally 2.5 years ago but it no longer works. I very rarely use it, and after the socket is a light which continues to work so power must be reaching the circuit.

Question is am I missing something? it’s showing ‘red’ on the indicator and doesn’t flick off after reset. Do I just need to have a new one fitted and if so should I stay with the current brand Contactum?

 

[Murdochcat]

If you CU has RCD protection, then this RCD socket can be replaced with a standard socket

 

[Mnx100]

If you CU has RCD protection, then this RCD socket can be replaced with a standard socket

Ah ok thanks, the garage goes through the CU as a standalone switch and only has that socket and light

 

[Murdochcat]

Ah ok thanks, the garage goes through the CU as a standalone switch and only has that socket and light

What is on the supply end of the garage circuit?

 

[Mnx100]

What is on the supply end of the garage circuit?

It is on the mains switchboard, is that what you mean?

 

[Taylortwocities]

What is on the supply end of the garage circuit?

You've crossed the rubicon by asking this.

You are on your own with this one now @Murdochcat !

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

It is on the mains switchboard, is that what you mean?

What is being asked is - Is there already an RCD, or RCBO on that circuit somewhere? Anywhere at all, so long as it protects that circuit. You only need a single RCD/RCBO on a circuit, to offer protection of everything downstream of it.

 

[Murdochcat]

If in doubt please post a photo of your house CU

 

[Mnx100]

What is being asked is - Is there already an RCD, or RCBO on that circuit somewhere? Anywhere at all, so long as it protects that circuit. You only need a single RCD/RCBO on a circuit, to offer protection of everything downstream of it.

Thank you, appreciate the wording. So in my very amateur opinion yes, in the consumer unit the ‘garage’ is on a switched circuit, which if overloaded would trip. I’ve changed many a socket in my time but is it worth having someone look at it if this has failed after being professionally installed 2ish years ago.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I’ve changed many a socket in my time but is it worth having someone look at it if this has failed after being professionally installed 2ish years ago.

Well, we can't tell from the internet what is wrong with it so if you can't find out yourself then you will need someone.



Just swap it for an ordinary socket to see if that one works.

If it does then...
If it doesn't then...

 

[Taylortwocities]

, in the consumer unit the ‘garage’ is on a switched circuit,

I'll ask for @Murdochcat

Please post a photo of the house consumer unit. The "switch" = MCB and that deals with overload, as you correctly state.
What we need to know is if that circuit is also protected by a 30mA RCD.

A photo should clear up that little issue.

It does matter because - if there is no RCD - then you must not follow this advice

Just swap it for an ordinary socket

 

[EFLImpudence]

Just swap it for an ordinary socket to see if that one works.

If it does then...
If it doesn't then...

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

So in my very amateur opinion yes, in the consumer unit the ‘garage’ is on a switched circuit, which if overloaded would trip.

That is an MCB, what you need to confirm is - is there either an RCB, or RCBO, providing protection to this circuit which supplies this garage.

Both RCB's and RCBO's will have a tiny button on them marked T or TEST - An MCB does not. An RCBO is an RCD, combined with an MCB, and with have the test button, plus be marked 6A, 16A, 32A, for its current rating.

An MCB only provides over-load protection, an RCB/RCBO provides a different type of protection, protection for you, against faults.

 

[ericmark]

If in doubt please post a photo of your house CU

That would not help with my house. I have an all RCBO consumer unit, and two RCD socket supplied from the solar panel inverter, wired with SWA.

I can test, ⁣but most DIY people can't, google shows so why not simply change the socket? Never mind trying to save a few pounds on a non RCD socket as MAY not be required, just swap it for another RCD socket, since sockets did have type AC RCD's and now they use type A RCD's it will not be the same as the one removed, and most people don't use and test enough to work out of the new types which are good and which are bad. Just replace it and see if it works.

The biggest problem is being able to turn it off. I know I struggled to find out how to turn off mine. Ended up unplugging the battery, I could not find an isolator anywhere. Clearly, I did not fit the sockets, to start with.

So one of these

helps, again I use one of these, but a DIY person is unlikely to have one, I did have one of these

but all the non-contact testers have the same problem, how do you know it is working. If a RCD socket is fitted, one assumes not supplied from a RCD, so one does need to be super careful.

If you are certain that it is fed from a known device which you can turn off, great, there are two reasons for fitting RCD sockets or using RCD socket adaptors, one is the supply not already RCD protected, the other is we want a non volt release, to power things like grinders, which could with a power cut be left on, using an active RCD socket, when power returns it will not auto power up. RCD sockets are typically cheaper than no volt release starter buttons, and so in a garage it would make sense to fit active RCD sockets, so things could not be left switched on after a power cut.

 

[Mnx100]

That would not help with my house. I have an all RCBO consumer unit, and two RCD socket supplied from the solar panel inverter, wired with SWA.

I can test, ⁣but View attachment 398169 most DIY people can't, google shows View attachment 398170so why not simply change the socket? Never mind trying to save a few pounds on a non RCD socket as MAY not be required, just swap it for another RCD socket, since sockets did have type AC RCD's and now they use type A RCD's it will not be the same as the one removed, and most people don't use and test enough to work out of the new types which are good and which are bad. Just replace it and see if it works.

The biggest problem is being able to turn it off. I know I struggled to find out how to turn off mine. Ended up unplugging the battery, I could not find an isolator anywhere. Clearly, I did not fit the sockets, to start with.

So one of these View attachment 398171 helps, again I use one of these, View attachment 398172 but a DIY person is unlikely to have one, I did have one of these View attachment 398173but all the non-contact testers have the same problem, how do you know it is working. If a RCD socket is fitted, one assumes not supplied from a RCD, so one does need to be super careful.

If you are certain that it is fed from a known device which you can turn off, great, there are two reasons for fitting RCD sockets or using RCD socket adaptors, one is the supply not already RCD protected, the other is we want a non volt release, to power things like grinders, which could with a power cut be left on, using an active RCD socket, when power returns it will not auto power up. RCD sockets are typically cheaper than no volt release starter buttons, and so in a garage it would make sense to fit active RCD sockets, so things could not be left switched on after a power cut.

Amazing, I really appreciate the comprehensive response.