Cooker and fan unit. Rewire?

[stardanny]

Hi

I had been busy doing a new kitchen in my house, 1930.

During the work, I add a new fusespur spur from a downstair ring main for a washing machine, checking the rest of cables to lighting, ringmain etc, discover that some of cables are from 1970, some from 1985, and got a old 6 way rewireable fuse board with a sep. RCB 30MA trip on meter tails to board. I have a electric cooker and it connect to a cooker/socket switch which also connect to a fan unit via a 3amp fusespur in 2.5mm T+E. The cable for cooker to fuseboard is 10mm T+E cable. Is this correct?

Also I have a 9kw mira sport I fitted 2 years ago, The cable run from fuseboard protected by 45a trip to pull cord switch to shower and within 9 metres long, no problem. Now I would like to use a imm. heater, but no spare fuse.
So is it time to rewire 3 beds house? At the moment, I replaced all rewireable fuse with trippers as a temp.

How many fuse way do I need? I have to have a spilt load unit.

Hope this help.

1x shower 6mm new cable
2x ring main 2.5mm
1x imm. heater 2.5mm
2x lighting main 1mm
1x garage main 4mm new cable
1x cooker main 10mm new cable

 

[Adam_151]

That fuseboard is probably not designed to take any circuits in excess of 32A, does the 45A breaker sit arkwardly? (I'm sure RF lighting could furnish you with a picture of a melted version of your board to demonstrate what tends to happen )

9kw shower on 6mm² cable is perhaps questionable depending on installation method

Why do you think you have to have a split load board... theres more than one way to skin a tiger!

Are you aware of part P of the building regulations?

 

[stardanny]

Hi.

Yes, I am aware of a part P regulation. I am a plumber so I know about it.

The shower cable run from fuseboard in kitchen to bathroom floor 1m and along joist 2m to airing cupboard in trucking 3m to loft, running above lagging 2m to drop into switch then out to shower 1m.

I have been told to use a spilt load board. why not use?

The breaker came with it base design to fit into fusehousing and the breaker sit ok.

 

[ColJack]

a non split load board fitted with RCBO's is another way of getting RCD protection for circuits..

it has the advantage that if a fault occurs, it will be limited to the circuit it's on and not take out half the house.. it also helps in finding said fault for rectification..

the 12 way consumer unit "kits" that come with breakers usually come with...

1x40A
4x32A
2x16A
3x6A
and 2 spare slots..

so thats ..

40A for shower
32A for ring
32A for other ring
32A for garage
32A spare or for... ( I sugest a seperate kitchen ring.. )
16A for imersion heater..
16A spare or for..
6A for lights
6A for other lights
6A spare or for..( future outside lights or smoke alarms.. )

you'd have to get another 40A breaker for the cooker..

that leaves you with 3 spare breakers and 1 spare hole for future expansion..

 

[Adam_151]

I have been told to use a spilt load board. why not use?

No automatic reason, its just with these things its best to understand what you are doing and why you are doing it, rather that base a design on snatches of advice gathered from whereever

As coljack points out, a split board is merely one way of providing RCD protection to the circuits which require it