Copper pipes through metal stud partition wall

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11 Jun 2014
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Ayrshire
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United Kingdom
Hi,

I'm replacing my existing straight bath and installing P shaped one and adding a shower and would appreciate some advice.

I have a gravity fed hot water system with the tank raised in the loft. My en-suite has a gravity fed mixer shower. Rather than install an additional gravity fed showing in my main bathroom I have decide that I would like to install an Aqualisa pumped digital shower and bath filler. I plan to fit separate feeds from the hot and cold tanks so that I minimise the effect on the en-suite shower. I have already considered installing a dedicated pump and using a different mixer shower but it gets messy with the amount of pipework required. This shower is simpler to install as all I need to do is provide a feed from the hot and cold water tanks to the control box which sits in the loft connected to a an electronic diverter which has two 15mm piped outlets, one for the shower and one for the bath. To switch the shower or bath 'on' you use the wall control device that connects to the control box in the loft via data cable.

Could someone please advise me on the following?

1. The shower installation guide recommends that 15mm copper pipes are used on the output from the control unit/pump/diverter. The only practical way I have of bringing the pipes down from the loft is through the cavity within an internal metal stud wall. I believe there are "knockouts" in the metal stud partitioning to allow for the running of pipes and cables but I wanted to ask if there were any issues in doing this? ie two different metals possibly coming in contact. Is there a specific plastic or rubber grommet that should be used?

2. What is the best way to secure the pipes within the cavity to stop any movement?

3. In order to minimise the affect on the ensuite shower should I install an an essex flange with an anti-gravity loop? I have checked the tank and there aren't any ports on the top of the tank that are blanked off which could be used for attaching the additional feed. Also there isn't much room on the vertical pipe at the top of the tank before it turns horizontal to connects to the other vertical pipe which leads up to the cold water tank.(Vent) sorry for the poor description.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Mark
 
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1+2 have a look @ British Gypsum website - and ask on the Plasterers forum here . 3 look up Surrey Flange - for the top of your cylinder ;)
 
1+2 have a look @ British Gypsum website - and ask on the Plasterers forum here . 3 look up Surrey Flange - for the top of your cylinder ;)

Thanks for your reply.

It's not clear what I would use from the British Gypsum website that's why I was asking here hoping that someone would have had some experience of this and say how they did it. The site literature mentions rigid pipe clips but not being familiar with the type of plumbing pipe clips means that I am none the wiser. I will stick a post in the plasterers forum as well.

I only have 2 and half inches of space between the top of the tank the bottom of the soldered elbow above the tank. I don't think there is enough room for fit a Surrey Flange that why I was asking about the Essex Flange.

Regards,
Mark
 
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