Cornice 45º

[Harbourwoodwork]

You need a chop saw with fine blade,do the cut with the cornice flat,Google compound mitre cuts that gives all the possibilities of angle of cornice mitre and bevelcut's

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

WHY ARE YOU NOT GETTING THIS?

 

[Gary0]

Thanks but none of those posts relate to my previous post. (Even if you do shout and try to belittle me to make yourself feel big.)

It is obvious that the thing needs to be supported at 45 degrees, the problem always was how.

The video does not show the solution it shows a cornice/coving that has 2 flat sides and a high wall. This has nothing to do with the cut out I referred to.

So I throw your question right back at you. Why are you not getting this ? Why do you think trying to belittle folk on a forum simply because you don't understand the issue, is a fun thing to do ? Is that the normal reaction here ?

And I think it would be appreciated by all if you could control your shouting.

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

I am just trying to draw your attention to the fact's youv'e been given all the answers you need ,If I wanted to insult you I would have done a better job of it

 

[Gary0]

But you didn't do so. You drew attention to ones I 've read and which whilst seemed hopeful didn't turn out to solve the issue.

 

[gregers]

i really think you need to find a chippy to do this for you.before you cut your hand off.

 

[Gary0]

I have no idea why anyone would come to such a conclusion. If I am likely to do so, I'm absolutely sure the chippy would be more likely to.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

But you didn't do so. You drew attention to ones I 've read and which whilst seemed hopeful didn't turn out to solve the issue.

I'm sorry to say this Gary, but I KNOW that I gave you the answer in one of my posts. There are just two ways to cut cornice - you can either cut is flat with a compound cut (i.e. mitre + bevel angles set as HWW told you) OR you can hold it in the INVERTED position with a tall fence at the rear and a small fence at the front. That's how I was taught to do it something like 40 years ago and in the meantime geometry hasn't been revised that much, has it? The only issue in doing these cuts is that there are generally two different spring angles, 45/45 and 52/38 (degrees, obviously) used in machining the profiles

I have no idea why anyone would come to such a conclusion. If I am likely to do so, I'm absolutely sure the chippy would be more likely to.

I'm waiting for you to describe us all as thick, next. A chippie would look at the task, make up a sub fence then do the cuts. Job done......

 

[gregers]

I have no idea why anyone would come to such a conclusion. If I am likely to do so, I'm absolutely sure the chippy would be more likely to.

and yet you come here to ask advice.which has been given to you and yet you still havnt listened to said advice and seem to think that the members here are inept.they have answered you and yet you still think there is an easy way to do this,and your disregarding it.
WELL hey go find it yourself.

chopsaws are 1 of many tools that us carpenters use that if not given the correct respect will bite you on your arse,ive seen it and it aint pretty.and that was a carpenter with quite a few years under his belt.from what ive read you havnt got jack ****e in experience on 1 and yet you seem to think its an easy task.
good luck.

 

[Gary0]

This place is unbelievable. One comes, asks a question, gets some honest attempts to answers but which doesn't fully do so, and then when I add a possible solution others might find useful I get a load of thinly veiled insults and then to top it all get posts implying my polite answers have made others feel insulted. What is it with some of the posters here ?

JobAndKnock. big-all's video link seemed hopeful to start with, but on looking at it in detail it turned out the 52/38 appears to be for cutting flat pieces and not the shape I am wishing to saw. The 45/45 has the issue that with a rounded edge not being stable, especially without a high fence. Yes the putting something behind was a good idea and as I mentioned one I had thought of, but was hoping for a less risky option than holding more than one item whist cutting. I took on board the suggestion of the, mitre jig which I hope would solve the issue.

I also was kind enough to post again mentioning another possible aid to getting this done for anyone else's benefit and then the trolls started.

I don't go around describing folk as thick: impling folk are thick, and by that I mean implying I am, seems to be the job of some who post here. Of course anyone else is more likely to cut their hand off than I. I'd have though it clear that I take a lot of care, ask questions, working out what is needed, so I'm at very low risk. So clearly any reference to me cutting my hand off and implying I'm so thick I need someone else to do stuff for me, is mere trolling.

gregers. Yes I come for advice, not insults from those who wish to make themselves look superior to those asking. No you could not be more wrong about not listening, if you reread the posts you will see they have all been listened to and responded to. No one has suggested anyone is inept, merely that it took a while to work towards a solution. I don't understand why anyone would claim otherwise. The "go do it yourself" comment is hardly what an advice forum is for. I have treated all here with respect despite the latter posts and their abuse, merely defending myself against attacks, yet here you go saying you need more. If I thought it was an easy task I'd not have posted here would I ?


If this is how polite decent folk asking simple questions are treated it is difficult to understand how you get folk to keep coming here. This experience has been unbelievable.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

I hope we're actually gonna get photos one day of this behemoth of an extension you're building Gary0?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

but on looking at it in detail it turned out the 52 / 38 appears to be for cutting flat pieces and not the shape I am wishing to saw.

To clarify. And BTW I have done my fair share of wood machining. Cornice mouldings are for the most part machined with a spring angle of 38 degrees, 52 degrees (hence 52 / 38) or 45 degrees . Mouldings can be machined with a flat to plant on top of a piece of furniture (the norm for modern kitchen work), or as in the case of the stuff you showed it is designed to plant onto the vertical face of the cabinet, or for that matter a wall. If you do not have a vertical section of cabinet to plant it onto then you need to build-up the cabinet with a series of glue blocks or a batten fixed along the top at the front/side edges

The 45/45 has the issue that with a rounded edge not being stable, especially without a high fence. Yes the putting something behind was a good idea and as I mentioned one I had thought of, but was hoping for a less risky option than holding more than one item whist cutting.

Then use some common sense! One thing almost any joiner will do is to modify his tools to cope with different aspects of the job. Need a stable, high fence? Cut one out of MDF and screw it to the machine's back fence. Need a front stop? Make up the high fence using two pieces of MDF joined together to form an L-section. The L-section still gets screwed to the machine's back fence and once secured something like a piece of 2 x 1in PAR softwood (an offcut) can be screwed to the base to make your front stop. That is exactly what a commercial jig does - the difference is that those are adjustable for different width of moulding

As to being a troll, I think it's more likely that you are the troll judging from others reaction here, wouldn't you say?

So clearly any reference to me cutting my hand off and implying I'm so thick I need someone else to do stuff for me, is mere trolling.

Read your posts again, please. You may then understand why others are getting annoyed with you