Cost of underfloor heating?

[RrogerD]

Hi,
Doing a refurb and ripping kitchen and adjacent ground floor bathroom out. Solid floor. What is the approx cost of installing electric underfloor heating per metre? I suspect having it put on top of the existing surface rather than digging down.

While we're at it, is it permitted nowadays to NOT have a lobby between the kitchen and bathroom? I recall reading somewhere that you can open bathroom with toilet directly in to kitchen as long as there are hand washing facilities provided with the loo.

TIA

 

[foxhole]

Cost for underfloor electric heating is an electrician, regardless of size of floor area , while cheap to buy the running costs are the main concern .
With loo off kitchen you must have mechanical ventilation.

 

[RrogerD]

Cost for underfloor electric heating is an electrician, regardless of size of floor area , while cheap to buy the running costs are the main concern .
With loo off kitchen you must have mechanical ventilation.

Thanks for the reply.
Any ideas on costs for installation per square metre? I'm not really interested in the running costs. I'll be putting in a (water) heated towel rail in the bathroom anyways, it's up to the occupiers to chose to have the floor heating on or not. I'm just trying to create a 'wow' factor for the otherwise very small-roomed property.
Cheers

 

[foxhole]

Thanks for the reply.
Any ideas on costs for installation per square metre? I'm not really interested in the running costs. I'll be putting in a (water) heated towel rail in the bathroom anyways, it's up to the occupiers to chose to have the floor heating on or not. I'm just trying to create a 'wow' factor for the otherwise very small-roomed property.
Cheers

It’s not costed per square metre .

 

[Diver Fred]

My experience, approx 4 sq Mtr in 2018 :-

Electric mat, insulation 10mm, control unit, spare thermo sensor, £250.
Self Leveling compound, adhesive, tiles £200.
Labour (2 off Half day, 1 full day) over a week (5 days). I did the labouring so cut costs. B-i-L is a sparky so that was a freeby.

You have to leave SLC to cure between steps hence 5 days to complete.

If you do not have electrical test kit and knowledge you will also need an electrician to test at various steps :-
a, on receipt of mat (loop resistance)
b, once mat is laid but before bonded with SLC, (loop resistance)
c, When mat is bonded and SLC is dry (Loop resistance, Earth leakage)
d, When floor finish is complete (Loop resistance, Earth leakage)
e, when electrical connections complete but but before powered (Loop resistance, Earth leakage).

Power consumption is (or was) 150 or 200 watts per sq mtr.

Use 10mm insulation as a minimum.

But if you have hot water central heating go for a water heated floor, less hassle with what is placed on the floor - it is very easy to get 'hot spots' with electrical heated floors which will shorten the life of the element.

 

[RrogerD]

Thanks wgt52. A very useful and informative reply, much appreciated.
I do have HW c/h but it was my understanding that it was significantly more expensive to lay than the electric. Very interesting re having hotspots with electric though. I've had electric car seat covers and an electric heat-pad (both for my wife) which have all failed (although both flexi whilst a floor isn't) so it does worry me a bit.
Thanks again