Could these be air vents?

[amfisted]

Some impressive looking gear there, but a bit beyond my pocket right now. Although perhaps fitting the five quid Screwfix vent is going to turn out to be a false economy, given today's events.

I fitted the AAV and its made no difference at all. Just the same amount of rushing, and gurgling, and in fact a little more when I first refilled the system, though it settled down later. At one point I thought the hot water cylinder was going to to into orbit.

I have a feeling there's a reason why the RGI isn't returning my calls.

 

[St0rmer66]

Give it at least a few days to settle down before assuming the worst. It can take a while to work it's way out.

 

[amfisted]

Thank you.
After how many days can I safely assume "the worst"? It was still gurgling merrily seven days after the RGI fitted the radiator.

 

[amfisted]

Latest so far. Yesterday I fitted another AAV, replacing the second manual vent. Made no difference. I ran the pump with boiler off and water cold and, imitating the RGI's actions after he fitted the radiator last week and then fired up the system only to find it full of air, I went from one radiator the next, connecting a hosepipe to each draincock, opening up and trying to get the air out of the inverted loops that way then bleeding the rads at the top. The hot water and heating are working, there's no longer any rushing sound in the pipes around the pump, but the water still gurgles as it enters and leaves the boiler. I think I've purged as much air as I can and come to the end of my knowledge. Any further suggestions to get the rest of the air out gratefully received.

Having probably drained away every last drop of any inhibitor that there might have been in the system I need to top up. I think the usual procedure is to drain some water from the system and add the inhibitor to the F and E tank, but to be honest I'm reluctant to drain again in case I introduce more air. Is there any other way of adding inhibitor to this type of system? If I tied up the ballcock, then took a jug, baled some water from the F and E tank and then added the inhibitor, would it make its way around the system that way?

 

[Nige F]

Latest so far. If I tied up the ballcock, then took a jug, baled some water from the F and E tank and then added the inhibitor, would it make its way around the system that way?

No it wouldn't - best to isolate a rad- crack open the connection to it from the valve - drain water out - remove air vent plug and put the inhibitor in thru there - get a mastic gun tube of inhibitor.

 

[amfisted]

Thanks for that--I'll do that very thing next week.

 

[amfisted]

Final questions (hopefully) because I think every other avenue has been explored; and by the way, I'm mighty grateful for all responses, particularly given that chronic boredom with this thread has probably now set in.

The boiler is still gurgling, but the system is working. Would there be anything to be gained by putting a third AAV in the pipework more or less above the boiler? The current AAVs are perhaps three or four metres away above the pump, cylinder etc, and when I sit in the loft and listen, the rushing or gurgling sounds appear to be almost exclusively in the direction of the boiler.

Additionally, there's a Magnaclean above the boiler. Might that be retaining some of the air?

 

[St0rmer66]

I'd just manually bleed the magnaclean a few times personally.

 

[Scarum]

Is the gurgling when heating hot water, rads or both? I had air in my Y-plan when heating hot water only after I cleaned the system and replaced the pump. I found an AAV made little difference to remove the air but it helps when re-filling.

I removed the air by draining from the boiler stop-cock with the mid-port valve set to hot water only - but not draining so much that the FE is emptied (so air can get in). I drained in to a clean 2 litre water bottle so the inhibitor solution can go back in to the FE tank.

 

[amfisted]

I'd just manually bleed the magnaclean a few times personally.

Having read about the tendency of Magnacleans to leak I was reluctant to bleed it, but I did so and the gurgling has subsided a touch. In fact, having climbed up and put my ear to the vessel (its directly above the boiler) it seems that the majority of the "gurgling" is occuring inside the Magnaclean itself.
My next project is to open it up the Magnaclean and wash the filter, but I'll need a whole new thread for the consequences of that so might need a day or two to psyche myself up.

 

[amfisted]

Is the gurgling when heating hot water, rads or both? I had air in my Y-plan when heating hot water only after I cleaned the system and replaced the pump. I found an AAV made little difference to remove the air but it helps when re-filling.

I removed the air by draining from the boiler stop-cock with the mid-port valve set to hot water only - but not draining so much that the FE is emptied (so air can get in). I drained in to a clean 2 litre water bottle so the inhibitor solution can go back in to the FE tank.

It happens in both scenarios, hot water and heating.

As stated above, bleeding the Magnaclean has made some difference to the noise, but in any case I need to add inhibitor so if I can locate the boiler drain cock I might as well give your solution a try also.

 

[Dan Robinson]

They don't leak much, and v certainly not from the bleed point on the top that uses the same key as a radiator.

 

[amfisted]

Well, mine hasn't sprung any leaks yet after being bled several times yesterday, although if I remember rightly, the documented problems tend to be around the valves and lid.

I've got a spare O ring set anyhow, so when I feel REALLY brave, I'm going to open it up and clean it.

 

[St0rmer66]

It's the lid seal that leaks. But they updated the seal from red to black, if it's already got a black seal then don't bother changing it. Likewise with the isolation valves, the plastic bit that you turn used to be red on the old ones which tended to leak when you use them, the black ones are fine 99% of the time.