Dab+Dot on old Agricultural wall Damp spots - advice please?

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Hi All,

We recently moved into a barn conversion (converted 2008) and noticed that there was some damp on one internal wall coming through in patches. It soon became clear this was where the dab and dot was. I removed a small section of plasterboard to reveal an old wall behind (the barns were built in 1860) so this is 150+ years old, lime mortar old bricks etc. This wall would have been exposed to elements to a fashion and all the usual cow excrement, water etc. in a cow shed so is more than likely saturated.

I've read that you shouldn't dab+dot any walls of this nature because the salts in the mortar/brick migrate through the dab+dot and are hygroscopic causing moisture to be attracted to it - hence the dark patches!! These walls like to breath!?

I understand one solution is to render the brickwork with a breathable render/plaster? I was also wondering if an alternative solution would be to fix plasterboard to the wall with metal fixings? This would prevent salt migration.

Pics below. The damp is as high as 2m so pretty sure it's not a rising damp problem and that the house has a damp course. I have been monitoring humidity in this area of the house and when it's 60% the damp patches are numerous and when it's 40% they nearly disappear! So does seem related to the hygroscopic salt theory. Dehumidifier doesn't prevent it....





Any help/guidance is appreciated.

Many thanks![/img]
 
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Hi,

Can anyone offer any advice on remedying this please?

Or, if not can you recommend a good plasterer who could help in Peterborough? Is there a registered body of Plasterers, like an association etc. so I know they will be competent and understand the problems?

Thanks
Chris
 
Urine = nitrates (traditionally used for fertilizer in the fields).
Nitrate and variously salt contaminated walls can be very difficult to deal with.

Perhaps go to an historical buildings or conservation website for better advice on this difficulty.
 
I agree with Ree .
Fixings themsekves might track it through.

I'm not sure about breathable being best here. Do you want contaminants to permeate?

All things being equal, it's good to preserve the character but I'm wary of using a traditional method for the sake of it - you have to live there, not the conservationist.

The dot and dab was used as a cosmetic fix. The wall could be sealed up with a slurry and tanked (if you get the substrate to be sound enough)or isolated with a membrane and perhaps a stud wall?
 
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Thanks for your reply.

I suppose one possibility is to just strip it back and have a bare 'character' wall - I think I'll investigate that a bit further now.

What about metal batons? Would that work. The wall will breath because above it is a roof void, it's there to support the oak beams only so is approx 8ft high.
 

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