Dazed and confused

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6 Apr 2006
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Hi really struggling with our heating. :(
We have a fairly new worcester 28dci boiler 3 years old. when the heating is on the rads (no thermastatic valves only the caps to let the water flow in to the rads) are fairly warm never roasting hot as i would like them to be, and we never have hot baths in fact we never have baths only showers. The water is never hot enough, starts off warm then decreases to tepid then cold. It is very annoying, especially as the house is generally cold, the heat is only noticable whe you come from outside in the house. I would be really grateful if anyone has any suggestions.
Thanks
 
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With all due respect, please do not attempt a DIY job on this problem. :(
What the last post was indicating by his question to you, was that your boiler will become much more inefficient quickly in a hard water area than somewhere where the water is softer.

I have to descale my kettle quite often as I'm in a very hard water area and my boiler was brand new when I called a Boiler Engineer, he wasn't cheap, only here for one hour and the water and rads were/are scolding. Plumbers aren't Boiler engineers although some do tinker...! I reckon £100 solves this nightmare...! :D
 
Thanks for your reply.
:D
not really a hard water area have a water softner in place!!! dont have to descale kettle very often. I guess i'm gonna have to call someone whose more clued up than me cant' you just feel the pocket getting lighter!! :( better that it's done before winter sets in again i cant cope with another cold winter!! :(
Thanks again :D
 
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It sounds like the temperature sensor has gone off value, but IIRC there are seperate sensors for CH and DHW, so this is extremely unlikely, so the next possibility I would look at is the modulating valve not working. This could either be a problem with the pcb not driving it or e.g. the solenoid valve gone open circuit

If you have a meter and the manual, you should be able to check this before calling in a fitter

first check the resistance of the modulating valve solenoid - it should not be open circuit

You can also test the voltage which the pcb is sending to the modulating valve, it should be between IIRV about 5 volts and 28v DC

Of course there could be other reaasons for your problem, but ty these first
 
LearnerPlumber said:
With all due respect, please do not attempt a DIY job on this problem. :(
Can you explain why you say that? Do you have some reason to believe the the OP is not competent enough to fault-find his boiler problem?
 
Softus said:
LearnerPlumber said:
With all due respect, please do not attempt a DIY job on this problem. :(
Can you explain why you say that? Do you have some reason to believe the the OP is not competent enough to fault-find his boiler problem?

Especially when LP is (by nick) a greenhorn

glossy eyed belief in the infallability of CORGI ?

one day he'll wear long trousers and be a little worldly wiser
 
Thanks Peeps its good to know that there is help out there!!! Will try suggestions! :D
 
Hey LearnerPlumber does not necessarily mean :?: greenhorn :?: , are you actually telling me that there is a point at which Tradesmen, Professionals or Brain Surgeons ever stop learning....?

People and assumptions! Makes me laffffff.......... :D
 
LearnerPlumber said:
Hey LearnerPlumber does not necessarily mean :?: greenhorn :?:
Well, that's pretty cryptic - what does it 'necessarily' mean then?

LearnerPlumber said:
People and assumptions! Makes me laffffff.......... :D
That's ridiculous. Are you saying that the user name you chose has no meaning? Either way, you can hardly be surprised at the impression that you've created.
 
DiyVirgin - Has it always been the same?
Do you have a room thermostat, and does it get to say 25 if you set it to?

Put hot tap(s) on full, see how much gas you're using (time the meter) then feel the fat leftmost pipe under theboiler to see if the heat is going round the rads instead of into the water.
 

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