Decent Paint Brushes

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Anybody know whatever happened to quality paintbrushes that let you get a good finish ?

I don't mind paying for a good brush, but I have yet to find any worth buying. Even those that are sold as SUPERIOR, and consequently cost more, still bear more resemblence to a bunch of twigs than a decent soft brush for glossing to a good finish.

Help please - I have a set of doors to paint !!!!
 
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If they are bristle then leave them to sit in your paint for an hour before you use them - or go for synthetic ones.
 
i stopped using natural bristles years ago - i got fed up with bristles breaking and brushes ballooning in water based paints.

I only use synthetic these days. Their working life is shorter if you are painting textured surfaces as the tips are pre flagged. Once those parts break off they become less efficient.

My favs are Wooster but Purdys are pretty good and often available at a discounted rate as a multipack..

Anza are OK as a budget brush
 
For the last few months we have been using Westminster synthetic brushes made by final task. These are great for emulsioning and are just as good as the more expensive synthetic brushes .
 
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There are some newer ones coming out real cheap that are based on plastics. The end of the bristles is very fine and very soft, but the main part lays paint down. Run your hand over the end, if it feels soft and is white, they're probably the kind I mean.

I paid about £4 for one from toolstation.com and I absolutely love it.

In terms of getting a good finish, you need to get artistic.

Firstly, do your cutting in and roller work at the same time. Secondly, when you cut in with the brush, run most of the paint off it building up the really transparent areas and then 'dust' the brush lines. I mean, when there's next to no paint left on it, sweep over over the brushed area to smooth it into the roller area. For a reference, download "bob ross, the joy of painting" and listen to what he says about creating mirrors in water.

Personally, if I'm doing a room now, I have the tray in my left arm and a big brush and roller in that. I brush the joins, the immediately roller the big areas, so the two dry together and have the same paint tin and same conditions as they go.

I've spent so long taping seams and then had them come out all nasty. The easiest way to is use an emulsion on the wood and an emulsion on the walls. Brush the contours of the wood, then rollers the walls before the brush work has dried.

I've had one of those Titan 440 airless sprayers. They do not help at all for domestic work. They'll empty a 10l tub of paint in minutes, the finish won't look very good and so on. They're designed for doing a whole floor of flats per days. The gun is either on or off, the flow rate isn't controllable in that sense. And that's over £1k's worth of painting gear. I know how to use spray guns, have respirators, know about composites, catalyst and have 5l containers of the solvent in paint stripper. Those commercial airless guns are too fierce.

I am considering trying the Wagner paint crew (115) models, the kind where the paint is in a hopper on a cart. But even the entry level airless gear is WAAAAY too much for domestic work, unless you have a house that is literally empty and waiting for the finishing work (sockets, switches, window fames etc).

Emulsion also has very nice self leveling. You can brush it, it will look all streaky, then it'll dry smooth. Gloss takes FOREVER to fully go off, it yellows, even the none yellowings, it needs a messy clean up and it's not at all hard wearing or chemically resistant. If you want those things, use urethane. Gloss works by oxidizing in the air, but it takes a stupid amount of time to fully cure. Weeks or months. Urethane dries quickly, doesn't yellow and is really resistant. Epoxy is evil good (the stuff they use on warehouse floors), but costs a ton and the whole batch goes off once it's mixed, usually quite quickly; so you need to move fast and need that level of resistance.

I swear, I've repainted walls, boards, rails and fitting so many times I've lost count.

Use emulsion. Brush it, roller it, dust the brush lines. Forget the tape and airless gear.

This is the precise brush I'm using

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
When you buy a prudy brush you are buying the best out there.

I use nothing but and have been doing so for many years and not to bad on price.
 
The purdy cutting in brush is identical to mine, just with purdy written on it. Same angle, same bristles, same soft white tips, same metal clamp and rivets, same handle. And it's more than twice as expensive. :p

Yeah, purdy is a good bet. But I can certainly give a thumbs up for the TS £4 brush. 100% thumbs up, which is also close to the price difference.

Branding can be a dangerous thing! I've watched people with PhD's in chemistry (lots of them, and from different sciences / engineering areas) assuming they need the brand names, when they've actually got it backwards and just spent £10k, literally, on things that make the problems worse. Scientists in particularly are a prime target for it, as there are so few suppliers and so little competition that the brands have a field day with the prices; some of them are just unreal, I mean, you could buy a new BMW with for the same money as labs will spend on ONE bit of gear and the desks will be covered in it (our undergraduate labs had keycoded swipe card doors that logged the time and name of each person going in to stop it getting lifted).
 
I've got purdy monarch elite brushes and to be honest the westminster synthetic brushes are just as good for emulsioning and are a third of the price of purdys. However I would use neither for glossing as I find pure bristle to be better for that job, in particular Hamilton perfections.
 
I'd recommend looking into polyurethanes over standard glosses. They are the same or easier to clean up, but MUCH more resistant, dry quicker and don't change colour over time.

Standard gloss is an odd paint in that it has a solvent and a chemical reaction going on. The solvent leaves in 24h, but it has to then oxidize in the air to cure. In my experience, by the time it's finished oxidizing, a month of more later, it's changing colour.

Urethanes don't do that, it's just a volatile solvent leaving.

The only problem with those is the colour choice. It's basically about 5 different colours from any local guys.

But if you're doing white on rails and skirting, check out urthanes; as white is one of those colours. White, black, green, red, grey.

If endurances / wipe down is needed, urethanes are the leader for single component paints. If you want ULTRA resistance, go to epoxy. Once the tin if mixed though, the hole thing will be going solid in 30 minutes and you CAN NOT thin it back out and get it flowing again; it's chemically impossible to do with a solvent. It's a two part and chemically reacts in the tin. But the resistance is ridiculous compared to everyday paints; and I've split chemicals over mine that university staff need to fill out forms to use. I've also driven mini-diggers over it.

Urethanes you can rethin, epoxies and esters you can't.

Endurance and floors and surfaces, epoxy. Less endurance but MUCH easier for rails, floors, skirts and surfaces, urethane.

Urethane is booming at the moment, it's used in high end aerospace work, half million / million pound cars, multimillion pound boats, as an insulation, glue, varnish and paint resin. It just so happens they it is not only economical to produce (the chemistry), but also easy to thin, workable, very resistant and can be used for tons of different things.

I don't think this is a fad either. I've spent thousands on chemistry gear at home and use it all the time. The chemistry, economics and hands on experience of using them all looks good to me. Much better than standard glosses.

All that and the hands on experience (brushing / thinning / washing) is the same or easier than standard gloss (alkyd), but with a similar price and far better performance.
 
Show us some links then - all you are doing is talk, talk, talk. Let's see the products please.
 
Show us some links then - all you are doing is talk, talk, talk. Let's see the products please.

By your command!

Scroll down to 'woodworker brush'

You should seriously try one out for £4. I think you'll probably like it.

{edit}When I click enlarge on the photo, it does something funny to the bristles and handle. The bristles aren't split halfway down if that's how it looks on yours, and the handle is much thicker than it looks in the picture, it just looks funny the way it's been cut out on the white backdrop (it's about 3/4"? thick in reality). If I can find the camera and get a minute, I'll try getting a picture of mine.
 
Hi John

I am second guessing Joe90 but i am assuming that he is asking for the inks to the paints and not the brush that you have already linked.

BTw thanks for the link I might get some as throw away brushes.

The synthetic paint brush market is extremely competitive and the it is one of few commodities where you are paying for more than branding. The commonly available purdy or wooster brushes are made using various flagged and tipped stock filaments whereas the budget brushes use only one or two different fibre types.

Incidentally i would guess that the reseller margins on the low end brushes are much higher than the top end ones, thus the fact that toolstation etc push them.

it is a shame though that we in the UK have a much smaller choice of filament types than the Americans
 
Sorry guys, I'm so busy at the moment it's crazy.

The paints?

The urethanes are on TS's site as well.

Epoxies, they don't carry one. And I just got a nice email back from Flag about urethanes / epoxies and they were saying how they agree they're the best for resistance, but few people seem prepared to deal with the mixing and way of working with them, so they're not doing one as it also requires special gear for them to handle it at the processing end of things.

There are quite a few people on eBay if you search for "epoxy floor".

I wouldn't recommend it in the house, unless you're doing something special and to make a statement (a specific design for a bathroom for example), but for a utility room or garage, you really can't beat it. You have to experience the epoxy finish to appreciate how absolutely awesome it is, it's definitely worth the money for that kind of area.

Clear EVERYTHING out of the way, get some gloves on, get 30-60 minutes set aside solid, tip one into the other, mix hard for a few minutes with a paddle, then get rollering!

Thanks for the information on the filaments, I hadn't thought about that. But I can still recommend the £4 ones for a try, I really like mine, it's lasting and worth the beer and half price to me.
 
The only epoxy paints that I use on a regular basis are the acid cats which are not suitable for indoor use or hand application.

I shall look into the urethanes though

Ta
 

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