Dormer and Roof Repairs

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15 Jun 2007
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Hi There,
Recently just moved into my new house containg dormers at front and back.

Caried out the Homebuyers survey which suggested getting a roofer out to check all was fine on the roof as issues were expected.

Asked the Estate Agents to send out one of their contractors who said the roof was fine but the front guttering needs work.

Fair enough, bought the house and moved in.
Following the recent harsh weather, i now have a pan on the top landing catching water from the leaky roof!!!
Not impressed!!!

The domers themselves look quite old and i was planning on updating them anyway, but should i just get someone in immediately to fix this leaky issue with the roof or would it be cheaper to get someone in to fix both the roof and dormer at the same time?

How much do you think it would cost to update and refresh dormer?
I have seen some dormers using white panels on the outside and double glazed which look quite cool, so thinking of maybe going in htat direction.

What's the best way of going about it? would a builder look after the Double glazing too or is that a separate contractor?

Sorry for so many questions, my first house and not 100% sure of direction to go...

Thanks
 
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I am a plumber that specialises in the fitting of leadwork so for me I am biased towards the lead. Although more expensive it really is the best material to use for dorma windows. Once I have finished a lead job I know no matter the weather my jobs are watertight. Cheap pvc panels may blow off in high winds...certainly seen that a few times in York. For me, if it was my house the lead option would always win.

Hope my biased opinion helps

steve
http://www.dohertyplumbing.co.uk
 
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Its great that you have the community spirit to make a DIY video of your repairs. Unfortunately much of what you've done is questionable:

The lead will expand and lift and split the flashing sealant.

Adequate width Code 4 lead flashings could have been slipped below the in place code 3 flashings, and fixed with a slight upstand.

Drilling guesswork drainage holes and sealing the provided custom holes is a pretty fraught solution - you would need an accurate understanding and section view of the PVC framing.

Relying on smudges of silicon around the tubes wont work - PVC expands and silicon perishes.

FWIW: lead can be bossed with a short block of wood and a hammer handle.
The claimed cause of the trouble, the sill screws, were still in undisturbed position after all the siliconing.
 
Its great that you have the community spirit to make a DIY video of your repairs. Unfortunately much of what you've done is questionable:

The lead will expand and lift and split the flashing sealant.

Adequate width Code 4 lead flashings could have been slipped below the in place code 3 flashings, and fixed with a slight upstand.

Drilling guesswork drainage holes and sealing the provided custom holes is a pretty fraught solution - you would need an accurate understanding and section view of the PVC framing.

Relying on smudges of silicon around the tubes wont work - PVC expands and silicon perishes.

FWIW: lead can be bossed with a short block of wood and a hammer handle.
The claimed cause of the trouble, the sill screws, were still in undisturbed position after all the siliconing.
Thanks for your feedback. In response: I did comment in the video that new wider lead flashing and reworking upstanding would be better (but more time consuming and expensive) but the Polymer sealant (note: Not silicon sealant) is much much better at maintaining a good seal and will not split and separate like silicon. I wouldn't have done the drain hole sealing with silicon as it does perish over time, unlike the new polymer sealants.
Yep one screw head left on the inside, but across from a raised channel so not so water exposed, but yep cover that as well.
The blocking of existing drain holes and redrilling is not very dependant on understanding the internal structure, since we are not relying on the structure for drainage, everything goes down the new holes, with guide tubes.
I agree with you, silicon smudges would not be any good. But polymer sealant is completely different, I wouldn't have done this without it.
I had five patio doors and multiple dormers that we're leaking due to the water going past the window seal, into the original drainage holes, onto the sill and either through it or out the side of the sill into the brickwork and then pouring down the inside walls below. This fix replacing the original drain holes was the only fix that completely cured it, despite doing all the usual stuff beforehand. All leaks have now completely stopped. Hence I felt compelled to help others with this frustrating problem.
 

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