Drilling through exterior wall to fit rad

[Murf520970]

When fitting a radiator in a conservatory I find it difficult to drill 2 holes through an external wall with 400 mm long bits and still line the holes up on the other side so they can be clipped . Is it better to drill 1 big hole for the 2 pipes or 2 holes as I've been doing. Could use a little advice from a more experienced tradesmen

 

[bengasman]

You don't really want to run flow and return pipes too close together as the return will pick up heat from the flow and reduce the working of the system. It's not a huge difference, but still.

 

[Nige F]

Drill from the inside of house - 2 holes . Take out a half brick from outside wall ( in conservatory) Run the 2 pipes with foam lagging on each where they pass thru` the wall - make good round the pipes/lagging which won`t be much smaller than the half brick hole Ask any Sky dish fitter - they blow the face off half a brick when they drill through from inside

 

[Murf520970]

Thanks for the advice gents. I may be thinkin too much but how do I know when I drill from inside that I will exit in the Center of an exterior brick . If you don't and exit thru say the mortar I may need to knock out more than 1 half brick if u get my drift. College dosent teach you these fundamentals .

 

[hi1]

Drill a pilot hole from the inside with a smaller diameter drill, drill from both outside and inside with the final size drill.

 

[expertgasman]

Have you remembered, or did you know, that part L aplipes here.As far as I understand, you have to be able to run the rad independantly of the rest of the system. Trv's are not fully compliant.

 

[expertgasman]

In any case, a stand alone wall heater is much better than a rad. - wall and shelf clearances permitting

 

[Murf520970]

I haven't done part L yet , didn't know ,How would you go about running the rad separately , zone valves ? And what type of stand alone heater would you suggest , without sounding dumb are we talking gas or electric
? I have a lot to learn as yet

 

[expertgasman]

I haven't done part L yet , didn't know ,How would you go about running the rad separately , zone valves ? And what type of stand alone heater would you suggest , without sounding dumb are we talking gas or electric
? I have a lot to learn as yet

Baxi braziia

Robinson willey warmplan

Google them

 

[Nige F]

Thanks for the advice gents. I may be thinkin too much but how do I know when I drill from inside that I will exit in the Center of an exterior brick . If you don't and exit thru say the mortar I may need to knock out more than 1 half brick if u get my drift. College dosent teach you these fundamentals .

Then they should . we used to do it by measuring round the nearest doorway ( or window) and using a spirit level - like nowadays a cheap lazer level would be easier . I used to have to do this for WC overflows up a ladder with the level balanced through the nearby window - then use hammer + chisel to make a neat hole on the outside - half a brick was not on . Proper plumbing isn`t just being Gas Safe registered . No problem with you asking , good that you give things a bit of thought

 

[expertgasman]

Have you thought (or knew) about this:

http://www.google.co.uk/products/ca..._result&ct=result&resnum=19&ved=0CJgBEPMCMBI#

 

[Murf520970]

Refering to" good plumbing being more than gas safe registration" I couldn't agree more . Im going to do a plumbing course as well as other courses at Baxi Warrington and w Bosch. Hopefully this will bring me up to speed.Thanks for the advice

 

[Murf520970]

Could anyone tell me how you would run this radiator independently from the rest of the rads on a combi ? To comply with part l or is it just for system set ups cheers

 

[Agile]

You would connect it up as a seperate zone with motor valve, timeclock and room stat.

To drill straight holes you can use a 1000 mm long drill as they are easier to line up straight. You need that length for some jobs anyway.

Drill a pilot hole and then drill from both sides.

Tony

 

[MJN]

Have you remembered, or did you know, that part L aplipes here.As far as I understand, you have to be able to run the rad independantly of the rest of the system. Trv's are not fully compliant.

Your understanding does not go as far as you thought...

You have to be able to disable the radiator in the conservatory, not run it when the rest of the system is off. Think about it - Part L is all about energy conservation and not chucking out heat to the night sky in the middle of winter when the conservatory is not in use.

A TRV to control the conservatory radiators is accepted as being fully compliant with the requirements of Part L (and exemption to building control).

If one wishes to heat a conservatory in the absence of heat demand in the rest of the house (e.g. cooler summer nights for example) then using the main boiler for a single zone of only one radiator makes very poor economic sense - you are far better off using supplementary electric heating. A basic standalone convector will more than suffice in such circumstances.

Mathew