Emergency roof repair

Joined
9 Sep 2007
Messages
3,862
Reaction score
189
Location
Newcastle upon Tyne
Country
United Kingdom
We've got a roof terrace above the kitchen (properly built load-bearing job) and it's finished in paving slabs - which wasn't really what we asked for but the builder did it while I wasn't looking. (Yes, I know; never turn your back on a builder :oops: but he'd done a good job up until then.)

A while back, I noticed that small amounts of water were coming down the kitchen wall during heavy rain. Up came a few slabs and there, right in the corner between roof and parapet wall, was a small split. Being in a hurry, I cleaned up the surfaces as best I could and applied a generous length of self adhesive flashing. Then I laid some old cardboard to protect the felt below and put the slabs back. This was temporary as I intend to remove all the slabs and tile it properly.

Everything was watertight, even after a generous hosing down, until last week. We had a seriously heavy downpour and got a puddle in the kitchen. :eek: When I looked at the flashing it had lost its grip on the vertical felt surface, allowing a small gap to open. The water must have risen high enough between slab and wall to flood over into this gap and, from there, into the kitchen.

Now I can see that I need a proper repair, presumably a decent sized piece of roofing felt, tied into the parapet wall like the existing stuff and spread out across the flat roof. Meanwhile, I need the quickest way to get this flashing - or a new bit of something - stuck back onto the wall.

Is there anything I can paint into the gap that will hold? Should I peel off the offending section to clean up and start again, maybe with some kind of primer this time? Should I use a different material altogether? :?: :?: :?:

I've got some lead and I've used that on a different flat roof to form a proper seal around a soil pipe. In that case I used a hot air gun to melt the lead into the bitumen and it's never budged. I'm reluctant to try this with the flashing strip in case it all melts into a sticky mess, though I've considered softening the existing felt before sticking the flashing on. Any advice would be welcome. :)

Next question. I'm going to lift all the abominable slabs and clean up the felt as best I can ready to take much lighter tiles. What's the best way to fix these. Should they go on a mortar screed or be bedded in hot-poured bitumen, or something else I haven't even thought of? :confused:
 
Sponsored Links
Felt will not stick to brick work unless primed with bitumin based primer,

Before primer applied brick work must be dried with blow torch=dry around 18 inch then prime right away,then blast that primer with torch,then dry/prime etc etc etc.No need to cut felt into wall what so ever.Also where you are making good onto existing,felt must be cleaned/dried and primed.

You also need a lead cap flashing in the wall.Sounds to me like job has been done in glass based felt hence fracture.You want high performance torch on felt preferably SBS

.Also flash band/tape is no good/rubbish.If putting tiles to walk on a felt roof patio tiles no good,you want flat roof tiles which can be fixed in a number of ways depending what type you use.

The last ones i used were fitted with hot bitumin,you can get some to fit with a cold compound,the ones before that were torched on,Ive also fitted a suction type before.

Sounds to me that you should just consider a re roof.Chances are you will do more damage lifting the slabs thats on there imo.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. :D :D :D

I maybe didn't explain very well. The existing felt is already turned up the parapet wall and cut into the brickwork about 4" above slab level. My self adhesive flashing repair is barely proud of the slabs. It came away from the felt, hence the leak, and I need to stick it back on ASAP. If I read you correctly I should have put a bitumen based primer onto the felt first. :oops: Should I remove the flashing and start again?

But that's only to keep the rain out for the next few weeks. What do you mean by flat roof tiles? When we got the thing built, our other half was expecting tiles about 12" square which I've only ever seen in situ. We were both equally horrified when we saw the 18" rough-finished paving slabs that the builder put down. :eek: :eek: :eek:

I think the existing slabs will lift easily. The mortar bed just crumbled away under the ones I've done already. :)
 
Remove and start again be best way.If sticking to existing flet yes prime first.Really the flet should have went up the wall onto the parrapit and stopped around one inch short of edge,then slabs/copings beeded onto this.

If walking on a flat roof you can get flat roof tiles,they are not made from concrete but a bit like a hard plastic/fibre they used to be asbestos but off course not now.Pictures would be handy.PS Acrypol or evacryl is good for felt roof repairs.

I do believe you can now get 1kg tins for around ten pound,

Not cheap but it does work and does not need primer ;)
 
Sponsored Links
Thanks for the advice. I've done a search for "Acrypol" and "Evacryl" but found nothing except some stuff about dentistry. :confused: :confused: :confused: I'm going to look for some bitumen primer. Then I'll take up the flash band, clean and prime like you say and stick a new bit on. It only has to hold for the next three weeks then I'll have the time to sort out a proper repair. :D :D :D

PS: I'll look into those flat roof tiles next.
 
hi space cat, if you google for promenade tiles for flat roofs theres plenty to choose from,also when i`ve fitted tiles it best to use something flexible ,as hot bit becomes brittle when cold and the bond can be broken if walked on....Dave ;)
 
Thanks for all the help so far. I followed up the ebay link and, after a bit of digging, I did find a supplier for Acrypol:

http://www.jjroofingsupplies.co.uk/...crypol-Waterproof-Roof-Coating/prod_5616.html

Cheaper than the ebay price too. :) :) :) So, now I know what it is, I'm going to look for a local source.

That's actually been a bit of a problem. When I search for "bitumen primer" at the average DIY store (Screwfix, B&Q, Wickes, Homebase) nothing much comes back. :confused: :confused: :confused: I'm guessing that these places don't have much in the way of roofing materials because it's the one bit of a building that most DIYers don't want to touch.

But I need some bitumen primer by Monday so I'm not giving up that easily.

"Promenade tiles." Good tip prod (or Dave). My search for flat roof tiles wasn't getting me very far. It helps if you know what the things are called. :D :D :D

I'll be out of reach of a computer for the next few weeks but I haven't forgotten. That roof still needs a proper repair so I'll be back. Thanks again. :arrow: :arrow: :arrow:
 
I use Flashband for loads of things. You've just got to know how to use it.

I ALWAYS apply it then give it a blast with a hot air gun. It'll stick to anything so watch your fingers. Wear gloves and apply the heat gun to the back of the Flashband whilst in situ then press it onto the surface you are waterproofing. Try it on a spare brick and you'll see what I mean.
 
Not quite gone yet. Holiday delayed until Monday. :( :( :(

Thanks for the advice Joe. I've never dared try a hot air gun on flashband in case the whole lot melted. I'll try it if I can't find any bitumen primer before Monday. :) :) :)
 
I buy 25 litre tins but i do know builders merchants sell 1 litre tins and they are under a tenner.

Wickses and wilkisons stores both sell also in small tins

.Allow primer to dry before applying whatever to it.(leave until next day) ;) .
 
I've just found this:

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Quick-Drying-Roof-Primer/invt/164069#

It's the only thing I've been able to find that fits the bill so I'll give it a go.

Cumbrianroofer30yrsexp said:
Allow primer to dry before applying whatever to it.(leave until next day).

Leaving it overnight isn't really an option because I can't risk leaving the open hole that long. The way the weather looks right now, it'll be touch and go whether rain holds off for three hours! I might have to leave some of the original flashing in place over the hole and add new stuff on top, overlapping higher up the wall. :( :( :(
 
You could always blast it with hot air gun,i use blow torch to dry when not practical to wait,

failing that do on dry day and wait as long as poss or until dry.

If hot day be dry in no time,alot depends on the weather.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top