Excessive condensation in roof

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11 Jan 2010
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New York
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I've been battling with this problem in different ways for about four years, but I'll fast forward to the most recent. I did read many of the posts regarding Lofts and condensation.

About four weeks ago I removed the four year old roof from my 12'x10' shed dormer - 4:1 pitch, nearly flat. Once the Lifetime Architectural shingles and plywood were removed, I removed all the insulation and began reinstallation. First the insulation - 2" x 10" joists - then proper vents (to move air from the sofit to the ridge vent ) then plywood then and EPDM rubber membrane.

Last weekend the bathroom cieling fell in...the sheet rock was soaking wet. When I removed the sheetrock I was shocked by the amount of water/condensation on the inside and outside of the polystyrine? proper vents. The water completely soaked the insulation, the sheet rock and Hardy Board over the shower.

There were two joist channels that were too small for proper vents and i was again shocked but by how dry these two areas were.

Observations:

The temps outside have been colder for longer than they have been in four years. I am guessing that the big temperature differential is at least part of the cause...if not most of it. But I believe that the small pitch in this roof does not allow air to flow to the ridge vent. when I checked behind the knee walls front and rear - this is a Cape - everything is bone dry.

The EPDM roof does not have any leaks as we have not had any significant snow this year - 2". And with the insulation gone, and heat turned off in the bathroom, the underside of the plywood is dry. As an experiment I turned the heat on and it basically rained in the bathroom.

Questions:

could the lack of adequate air flow cause condensation? My guess is an uncertified yes. Second, I was thinking of spraying 1" - 2" of closed cell polyurethane insulation under the plywood then adding the appropriate amount of fiberglass insulation.

I am somewaht concerned about moisture building up between the poly and the underside of the plywood...but if the R value is between 7 and 14 for the first 1" - 2" then the temp gradient should not be nearly as bad as it was.

Any thoughts are welcome. I like the idea of sofit vents and moving air from bottom top, but when codes dictate the need for these tpyes of vents in a roof that is nearly flat, the codes illustrate some lack of understanding for different building types.

Thanks all
 
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Hi, its difficult to tell what is going on without actually seeing this situation, but an alarm bell began to ring when you said ,"when you turned the heating on it began to rain in" It may be leaking hot flue gasses into the roof space.
Q, does the heating flue/chimney pass close to this area with the problem. I mean really close as in attached to the area in some way.
I once saw for my own eyes where a gas fitter fitted a gas fire, where he had stuffed the cavity each side of the fireplace with fiberglass insulation and the fumes were venting not just up the flu/chimney but were actually venting through the insulation and up the cavity into the roof space and saturated the under felt roof timbers an all.
I just condemned the job and the customer had to get a builder in to re build the entire fireplace. May be time to get it checked out.
 
...very interesting thought...yes, the chimney for the oil burner passes thru this space - I built the addition and it was inspected but the concrete block that forms the chimney is 60 years old...

Although none of the structure actually touches the chimney, it is obviously flashed at the roof - one piece on the roof and one on the chimney...so there is a little air gap but the air has to flow up then down then up to get out...this is very interesting.

In any event, I made a very big mistake when I reinstalled the roof...I performed the reinstallation in two weekends. The first weekend I got as far as completing the EPDM roof mebrane and wraped this over the ridge vent temporarily. The following week I must have been in a coma because I simpley installed the ridge cap right over the EPDM membrane that covered the ridege vent - yes, no venting. Using logic - this time - I went back on the roof to back track my steps and when I removed the ridge cap and saw what I had done I wanted to punch myself...I just stared at the covered ridge vent for about 2 minutes....

At this point the roof is finished. I use Owens corning Polystyrene - Formular 250 - as the insulation. Very tedious but very effective...one would not pay to have this done. I retained a 2" vent above the insulation leaving 8.5" of this insulation - 1" under the joists - heated side. So about R45 total.

But, the chimney is a concern...I have to check this...
 
Your shed dormer is probably not vented. CoreVent makes a ridge type top vent where the dormer meets any sidewalls.

You need soffit vents in combination with ridge vents to correct this problem
 
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The ridge vent is now working properly...I installed soffit vents when I constructed this addition...but I wonder if I should enlarge it or move its location; currently the soffit vent sits against the body of the house and not in the end of the over hang/soffit.

I believe moving this vent to the end/edge of the over hang may help flow improve.

I do have a gable fan installed and when I turned this on I could feel air being pulled in thru the ridge vent and soffit vent...so the paths are clear. How well air moves naturally is another question.

Also...the soffit vent is called core vent...I know some folks do not like this mesh material...the lack of air flow is a chief argument angainst it...?
 

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