Extending/Replacing Central heating Rads

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This winter has taught us a few thing about our new house, mainlt that the main bedroom windows are shot and the radiators in that room, the hallway and kitchen are woefully inadequate to combat the heat loss/draught.
We seriously can't afford to replace the windows themselves currently, and are unlikely to b able to for a few years yet, We've already sealed 1cm gaps around the existing timber frames of the windows.
so next best thing is boosting the ancient radiators with something more modern and high output. Don' know why the previous occupants only did half a job.
Any thoughts on the wickes high output doubles?

Do I need get a pro in to drain the system, and refill with inhibitor/re-pressurise? Or is this possible to do yourself with ease?
The main concern is behind the radiator in the bedroom - looks like its bolted straight to the breeze block/rubble and it's not been finished off behind there properly - no inner wall plaster skin. Hence another reason for huge heat loss/draught.
An idea how repairing that might be? I guess they'd just stick a piece of plasterboard over it and skim/dot and dab. I'm not sure that would sufficiently address the draught issues though. I've heard talk of 'set and float' but don't understand the difference.

I'm also looking to extend the system by getting a bigger radiator for the kitchen - its big open plan and has a poxy 600/500 size rad in one corner. Woefully underpowered for the size of room with cold tile flooring and large patio doors. Is it easy enough to just extend the flow/return pipes (all above floor/skirting due to solid floors) or will the viability of this be affected by the boiler capacity (Valiant Ecotec 28 iirc)?
 
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Difficult to say if the task is beyond someone you dont know to be honest. In fairness the best action would be to flush the system and replace the radiators which again is easy if you are handy but hard if you're not. Adding inhibitor is easy if done before you refill the system and repressurising is also an easy process.

You don't mention the size of the house but a ecotec 28 should easily cope with the demands of an average house. Have you checked the central heating temp is not turned down too low. The boiler could just be heating the water to let say 50 C then modulating on and off to maintain that temp which on a cold night wouldn't be enough.
 
The boiler is set for 70 on both hot water and heating dials. Coupled with a smart thermostat current recording an air temp of 20.4 on the landing, but cooler in the bedroom due to windows and dodgy brick work behind rad.
High ceilings, 15ft square bedrooms....last time i let myself be wooed by wood everywhere in a house......and only time with a 30 year mortgage....hahahaha.

I can unbolt a radiator from pipework and drain - been a few years though i remember the principles well. but it's the reverse - the reinstallation that I'd most likely get a pro in for, especially if extending the system, installing on new plaster/brickwork.
 
If you want a pro for the plumbing, fair enough. But I would be tempted to remove the bad rads and sort out the unfinished wall area and draughts yourself. You can fiddle with that until you know it is fixed, whereas a trade might be up against the clock.

New windows are also not the magic answer. My house has 15 year old upvc (previous owner's doing) but frankly the remaining 1930s wooden windows are less draughty due to their superior quality and fitting. I think the trick with Windows is the quality of the job done by the fitter.

I have a similarly cold main bedroom. It is because the tiled bay window has bog-all insulation or even building structure between the inside and the outside! I really must open it up and ram it with insulation.
 
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It sounds very DIY-able. You just need to work out the rad BTU and decide on a style and size. To drain the system you need to find the drain off valve. Plenty of YouTube clips showing how to drain and refill a system with inhibitor. You might need to repipe if the tails are different width but, but again its DIY-able.
Re the plaster, I would say get a spread in, but if behind the rad then I'd do myself it as the finish will largely be hidden, you just need to get the edges right which will be visible.
The crucial thing is if you like DIY, if not save hassle and stress and get the pro's in.
I would however spend time working out exactly what you want / expect to give them a tight brief, and you'll also know if they've done a good job.
 
Agree with the other comments. This is something I did a few years ago. I used to be an electrician and I am "competent" at basic plumbing and most small building jobs around the house. Especially tiling ..... so not an expert in this but I have done it before as I say. There are plenty of times to call in the experts though and no shame in that of course ;)

So I had to repair the wall, re-tile, after removing the rad by turning the lock valves off, have a bowl handy and remove the rad. I fitted the new rad put a bottle of inhibitor in as it hadn't been done for a awhile and I expect the actual amount in the system had dropped over the years, for various reasons, and turned the valves on to fill the rad up. Fairly unscientific method I know with the inhibitor. Bled the rad and everything worked OK. Water in the rad was fairly clear when I emptied it and no rust particles that I could see but I have no doubt there was some sludge elsewhere and if you can afford it flush the system if its as suspect as you suggest. My guess would be the 28 would cope with a small increase in capacity as spare capacity is usually built into a design of central heating. But its a guess from a distance.

I also put some sticky backed reflective foil behind the rad to reflect heat back from the wall. Not sure how effective that is but it was cheap so why not. I think if the budget is tight and you have to investigate the whole system and windows at a later date that should at least get you going.
 
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