extra solder on CW pipes & pipe bends

[numpty with a crowbar]

Morning folks,
2 questions in one morning - here goes -

Just need to double check on this as I'm getting conflicting info from reading material / people. Do solder joints need to have extra solder added to them? Some people are telling me that a joint contains the right amount of solder, while others are saying you need to add more? Is there a definite right wrong? And would a joint without extra solder be ok under mains pressure (which isn't that high all in all)?

And the second one....
Decided to raise my CW storage tank up into the roof to increase the HW pressure (HW tank not combi system). Unfortunately I can't raise it straight up as the central heating tank is directly above the cupboard that it's all in, so I'm moving it up and to the left (as you look at the cupboard), lagging it as it'll be in the roof etc etc. As a result the pipework for the feed "out" from the tank will end up going "down" from the bottom of the tank, then to the right for about a meter and a half across the width of the cupboard, then down to link up with the existing pipe. Will this be ok? Or should I bring the pipe down from the tank, then at a 45 degree angle down and across the cupboad, then bend it down to vertical to link up with the existing pipe? Just I want to get the maximum amount of pressure possible, and while common sense is telling me it won't make a difference, I've been hit by reality too many times to know that I'll get it wrong more often than right

All comments / advice welcomed

 

[bathjobby]

I assume your first question is relating to pre-soldered joints (none pre-soldered joints definitely do not have enough solder in them). Yes, they have enough. The trick is not to keep the burner on there too long and let the solder run out (plus clean and fluxed pipe ends). Once you see the solder appear around the pipe at the end of the joint, then thats enough. If you do 'overcook' it and loose the solder out of the joint you can always re-do and add solder, but best to get it right first time.
Second point; yes its ok to do that as long as you as sure it is horizontal and not marginally inclined i.e. a home for air locks. If in doubt, angle it using 45degree joints so that you are sure.

 

[numpty with a crowbar]

Marvelous! Good news on both fronts..

Yes I was on about pre-soldered ones (didn't actually realise you could get non-soldered ones - but you learn something new every day I guess )

And for the pipe from the tank - I'll not run it absolutely flat - give it a bit of an angle downwards to remove any chance of air locks, just not full scale 45 degrees...

Muchus gracias

 

[meldrew's_mate]

For max flow pull the bends with a bender and use as little bend as possible. As a rule of thumb each 90 degree BEND add resistance equal to an extra 300mm of straight pipe, but each (soldered) ELBOW adds 500mm.

Solder sitting in the bottom of pipes also adds resistance!

 

[numpty with a crowbar]

For max flow pull the bends with a bender and use as little bend as possible.

Finally I can justify buying that bender a few months back!!! (the "I'm sick of B**tard compression fittings" excuse wasn't the strongest one I've ever used with my better half) - this though will positively contribute to being able to give enough flow for a shower! Mint!

 

[Nige F]

For max flow pull the bends with a bender and use as little bend as possible.

Finally I can justify buying that bender a few months back!!! (the "I'm sick of B**tard compression fittings" excuse wasn't the strongest one I've ever used with my better half) - this though will positively contribute to being able to give enough flow for a shower! Mint!

GO for it.and don`t worry about measuring and F`ing about to get the bends in the right posn, I`ve been doing it by eye since 1970. because I`m number dyslexic ...just leave a bit over on the pipe length Cut to fit. Just don`t try it with threaded steel pipe