Fitting strip light in loft

[QuestionQuigley]

I currently have a conventional pendant-style light in my loft, which i want to replace with a fluorescent strip light (already purchased).

Having looked at the existing wiring, I'm puzzled to find there is only one twin & earth cable going into the ceiling rose, which comes from the switch. I was expecting two cables - one from the switch and another carrying the electricity supply. I have attached two photos - one showing the switch and the other showing the rose.

Switch

• QuestionQuigley
• 25 Feb 2012
• 1

Rose

• QuestionQuigley
• 25 Feb 2012
• 1

Is anyone familiar with this type of set-up? And am I correct in assuming that if it can be kept that way for the new strip light, all I need to do is connect the existing cable (from the switch) to the terminal block in the strip light? No other wiring required?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[jj4091]

You need to connect the cable going into the ceiling rose into the new fitting. If you need to extend the cable then disconnect the lamp holder (2 white wires) & connect new cable in their place(using the ceiling rose as a junction box).

 

[QuestionQuigley]

Thanks for the helpful replies.

I do indeed need to extend the cable, so I'm pleased to hear that I can use the existing rose to do that.

As regards earthing: is it correct that if (as advised) I disconnect the lamp holder from the existing rose and connect the L, N & E wires from a new length of lighting cable to the L, N & E terminals in the rose's terminal block, then connect the wires at the other end of the new cable to the L, N & E in the new light's terminal block, that will take care of all earthing requirements?

 

[jj4091]

Yes as long as the other end is connected to earth, if you have a meter check for 240v between live & earth as well as live & neutral, at the rose. Also you need to fit earth sleeve to the bare wire in the rose & your new fitting & cut off or insulate the wires to the lamp holder.

 

[sparkwright]

Had the old light been a pendant, it would seem reasonable to remove the flex and lampholder and use the ceiling rose as a junction, assuming no solid cable is passed through the rose cover.

But to disconnect the wires from the lampholder of a battenholder and use that as a joint seems misleading and tight-arsed to me.

Buy a 20 amp junction box, they're not expensive.

 

[QuestionQuigley]

Finally got around to this job. Strip light is up and wired in, and I’m about to connect the other end of its cable to my new junction box.

One thing that’s concerning me slightly: The original rose (photo in my earlier post) had live, neutral and earth going into it, which is fine. However, the red wire went to the terminal marked N and the black cable to the terminal marked L, which is surely the wrong way round. What I’m hoping is that this was just laziness on the part of whoever fitted it, because presumably it doesn’t matter which is which for the connections to the lampholder?

Does this seem likely, or is there a risk that the cable colours really are the wrong way round and the black one is live?

 

[Iggifer]

the red SHOULD be live, but that's not a given. You need to test it really do you have a multimeter?

It can be dangerous/not ideal to have the polarity reversed on a light fitting - it will still work with the polarity reversed but it's best to have it the right way round

 

[riveralt]

For the new strip light you need to have the correct pole going into the terminals. Switch live to L, neutral to N and earth to earth.
If you are happy that Switch Live (red) is actually switch live and neutral (black) is actually neutral then you must put the red in the L and the black in the N.

If you are unsure then you need to get a multimeter and check that the red is the live cable.
This is a live test so don't do it if you do not feel confident about working live.
Turn your multi-meter to volts and put the probes across the red (L) and black(N) you should get around 230v.
Then put the probes across red (L) and earth you should get 230v.
Then put the probes across black(N) and earth you should get 0v.
If these are the results then the red is L and the black is N.

 

[QuestionQuigley]

OK, thanks for that. I do have access to a multimeter so I'll check the polarities with it. I haven't used one before so your instructions are most welcome!

 

[stillp]

While you're at it, check with the switch in both positions to prove that the switch is in the live conductor.

 

[scousespark]

The installer has looped in at the switch. This means that the connections are done at the switch and you only see a single cable in the rose. It's a common method of installation.

If you are going to test, you will need to close the switch (switch the light on)

 

[davelx]

OK, thanks for that. I do have access to a multimeter so I'll check the polarities with it. I haven't used one before so your instructions are most welcome!

You say you've not used a multimeter before. Before you put that meter anywhere near live conductors, make sure you have it set to an AC Volts range of at least 250V. If you have it set to read current or resistance by mistake, things could get interesting.

 

[QuestionQuigley]

OK, thanks for that. I do have access to a multimeter so I'll check the polarities with it. I haven't used one before so your instructions are most welcome!

You say you've not used a multimeter before. Before you put that meter anywhere near live conductors, make sure you have it set to an AC Volts range of at least 250V. If you have it set to read current or resistance by mistake, things could get interesting.

OK, thanks - I'll make sure I double-check that.

 

[QuestionQuigley]

Many thanks for all your help, guys - the light is now connected up and working. Turned out the live and neutral wire colours were correct, which I managed to establish without frying my multimeter!

Thanks again.