Bahco in a recent thread about garage windows you asked for any tips on garage doors. Here's a few drawings ,well photos of drawings, of the doors I'm hoping to make.....sometime.
The doors in question are for a fairly wide opening and are hinged at the side . I'm intending to make them pretty solidily and am using convential methods to joint them together. This way isn't the only way and I'm sure others may have something to add which would be welcomed.
The fist pictures show the overall look of the doors.
The arrangement of the windows is for the look I'm after. If you wish you could have more convential square lights or dispense with the glass alltogether.
I'm using 150 x50mm for the stiles and middle rail (i.e. 144 x44mm when planed up), 100 x 50mm for the top rail and the bottom rail is out of 250mm material and will finish at around 28mm depending upon the thickness of the T&G boarding.
Next picture shows the bottom rail.
Tenons are cut into one side so that there is only one shoulder which will be visable on the inside of the door.
Next picture shows the middle rail.If there isn't going to be any glazing then the middle rail will be more like the bottom rail and the sloped shoulder won't be needed. I haven't got a picture of the top rail but it works the same with a haunch being cut at the top, the shoulders being square.
Final picture shows a little bit of detail of the boarding. I'm personally going for the boards with the bead mould. I think it looks nicer and will match other doors I made, the door being painted black with these beads picked out in white.
Construction is convential mortise and tenon. Ensure everything is cut accurately and square and try together before gluing up. When putting together ensure the door is assembled flat to prevent any twist being "built into it".Ideally the whole thing should be cramped up when gluing and you may have to rig something up for this if you don't have very long sash cramps, a sort of 4x2 frame with blocks and wedges. When tightly cramped drive in the wedges into the mortises as seen on the middle rail picture. Tongues on the boarding should be painted in top coat BEFORE assembly as this prevents bare timber showing if the boards shrink.
I hope this helps, but I've probably forgotten something. If it's not clear just ask
The doors in question are for a fairly wide opening and are hinged at the side . I'm intending to make them pretty solidily and am using convential methods to joint them together. This way isn't the only way and I'm sure others may have something to add which would be welcomed.
The fist pictures show the overall look of the doors.
The arrangement of the windows is for the look I'm after. If you wish you could have more convential square lights or dispense with the glass alltogether.
I'm using 150 x50mm for the stiles and middle rail (i.e. 144 x44mm when planed up), 100 x 50mm for the top rail and the bottom rail is out of 250mm material and will finish at around 28mm depending upon the thickness of the T&G boarding.
Next picture shows the bottom rail.
Tenons are cut into one side so that there is only one shoulder which will be visable on the inside of the door.
Next picture shows the middle rail.If there isn't going to be any glazing then the middle rail will be more like the bottom rail and the sloped shoulder won't be needed. I haven't got a picture of the top rail but it works the same with a haunch being cut at the top, the shoulders being square.
Final picture shows a little bit of detail of the boarding. I'm personally going for the boards with the bead mould. I think it looks nicer and will match other doors I made, the door being painted black with these beads picked out in white.
Construction is convential mortise and tenon. Ensure everything is cut accurately and square and try together before gluing up. When putting together ensure the door is assembled flat to prevent any twist being "built into it".Ideally the whole thing should be cramped up when gluing and you may have to rig something up for this if you don't have very long sash cramps, a sort of 4x2 frame with blocks and wedges. When tightly cramped drive in the wedges into the mortises as seen on the middle rail picture. Tongues on the boarding should be painted in top coat BEFORE assembly as this prevents bare timber showing if the boards shrink.
I hope this helps, but I've probably forgotten something. If it's not clear just ask
