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Getting the base coat flat - help please

Discussion in 'Plastering and Rendering' started by bedfordDIYer, 22 Jan 2015.

  1. bedfordDIYer

    bedfordDIYer

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    Hi All

    Hoping you could help me with what might be a basic question. I'm in the process of plastering my first room having completed a 4 day intro to plastering course.

    You'll see on the pic that I've added on the two steel beads and done the base coat in sand and cement on the end of the wall.

    The part i'm struggling with is when it come to adding the base coat to the left of the angle bead how do i get the base coat flat horizontally as i don't have a bead in the corner to run my feather edge down? So struggle to see how i can get the base coat flat vertically and horizontally.


    All advice gratefully received.

    Thanks
     
  2. roy c

    roy c

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    If you look in my Albums there is one called "Dabbing walls," have a look at that, it is one way of putting screeds up to work to. Or you could get a long straight edge and come across from the other side of your opening after you have laid your muck on and screed it up. Or you can come off the head and the left hand bead with a straight edge or you can make your self a right angle with two pieces of wood screwed together and come off the inside of the l/hand revel back into the wall and pull your muck up from the bottom. You may have to alter the angle to suit the wall if its not 90 degrees.. Hope you understand this .. Well done you it looks pretty good ;) The first coat is your scratch coat (unless you are filling out an uneven wall) then that is called a "Dubbing" out coat. The next coat is your float coat which is ruled off and trued up, when you have it how you want it leave it for a while, then with a plastic float with 3 nails or p/board screws put into the float on the top edge about 10mm in and have about 2 or 3mm sticking out start at the top and gently hold the float flat on your work and devil it up, This is putting scratches in so the plaster keys better have a look at the devilled walls in my album, Also take it level with the edge of your bead and when it is done just scrape down the bead with a small piece of wood (Not metal) so you have took about a 5 mm gouge into the mortar to give the skim a key .Never clean your beads with the edge of your trowel as if they are not stainless they will rust (more so on outside rendering) Good Luck... ;)
     
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  3. bedfordDIYer

    bedfordDIYer

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    Thank you so much for your detailed reply and referring me across to your prior pics / article. Really good tips!

    One last q if I may. If after you've completed your top coat render and devil floated it (and it's dryed) You notice there some low points, would you fill in with some more sand and cement or will the skim coat still flatten when you go over it with your multi-finish?

    I've tried using the one bead as a level but am struggling to get the other side flat, think i'll try one of your other approaches.
     
  4. roy c

    roy c

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    Yes it will be ok to fill out some of the "hollows" with your first coat of skim if they aren't too deep which they shouldn't be, then your next coat will flatten it out. ;) .
     
  5. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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