glow worm 30ci problems

[bazzjohnson]

hi new to this forum and im hoping some one can point me in the right direcdtion i have a glow worm 30ci thats giving me 2 problems the first is that after the boiler has been off for a while and goes to strike up i get an F1 fault after one or two power downs the boiler will run fine all day the other fault being that it constantly seems to be overheating when the central heating is on the radiators are getting up but the boiler is constantly kicking in and out as it gets too high a temp then drops down and starts again any help would be greatly appriciated

 

[Abcplumb]

Hi

F1 indicates a ignition detection fault, which can be caused by the gas valve. A faulty solenoid is a common fault, but I would advice you to get it inspected by a Gas Safe engineer. You can hint him in the right direction

Regards to your heating, the boiler is suppose to modulate the temperature according to the thermostat sitting and the heating temperature sitting on the boiler dial.
If you are suggesting the radiator go cold when the demand is still on then, this is not right.
Does the F1 fault code come up when the radiators are on?

 

[bazzjohnson]

hi the f1 fault seems to of dissapeared for now it was only comiong on in a morning when the boiler was striking up after not running for a while.
i still have the heating issue what its doing is getting to the temperature setting set on the boiler and cutting out so its working as it should but it means the boiler is stopping and starting quite regualary i think it should maybe go longer before it stops on over temp and because of this its taking longer to reach the settings on the thermostat does this make sense ?

 

[Abcplumb]

Hi

You need to check the setting of the heating dial. A certain setting means a set temperature. Try setting the heating setting to max, and check to see how long it takes before it cuts out. When it does cut out, check the radiator temperature.
How is your hot water, and issues there?

 

[bazzjohnson]

i set the temp setting on the boiler to full it took about 15 mins for the boiler to get to temp and the radiators were hot maybe all this is just in my head and its working as it should does that sound about right to you and thanks for the advice by the way its really appriciated

 

[Abcplumb]

Hi

It does sound like the boiler is working fine, sometimes these things can play on your mind.
If you do need and help in the future, visti our site.
abcplumbingltd.co.uk

 

[sooey]

No advertising Altaf.

 

[Abcplumb]

ooohhh Sorry
Will not happen again

 

[bazzjohnson]

the boiler sounds alright just when its on a low heat it get to the temp the cuts off alot quicker

 

[Abcplumb]

As you have said "gets to temp"
once the boiler has reached its set temperature then it's suppose to cut out, other wise it can over heat, and radiators would be getting too hot.
I think your boiler is fine.

If any of my information has help you, please click the thanks tab on the right.

 

[bazzjohnson]

hi my f1 fault has reared its head again you mentioned this could be the gas solenoid do you know if its possible to just replaced the solenoid or weathyer it will need a full new gas valve or if there is any way of testing it to confirm that it is this at fault ? thanks for your help

 

[Abcplumb]

Hi

You would have to replace the whole gas valve. I strongly advise that this is carried out by a Gas Safe engineer, for obvious reasons. A competent engineer with boiler repair knowledge will be able to confirm if it is the gas valve. If it isn't then he shouldn't charge you for the repair.
There is also a possibility is could be the ignition electrode, or even the P.C.B.
I haven't been on one of these for some time, so I couldn't be 100% sure.
I have managed to speak to someone at glow-worm, who will get one of their senior technical engineers to call me tomorrow with more information.
So if you can email me as much details as possible I will try to pass this information across. Hopefully we can get a more precise diagnosis.
[email protected]

 

[bazzjohnson]

I'll give you the full run down in December my boiler stopped working correctly the actuator on the diverter valve wasn't working upon inspection I found this was because the valve had been leaking which caused the actuator to fail which in turn caused the Pcb to fail I replaced the actuator and had the Pcb replaced by British gas ( it was cheaper for them to do it ) and I tried to stop the leak the leak carried on as I couldn't seal it so I ordered a new valve which came last week on the morning of the valve coming the boiler started to play up I replaced the valve which included a new actuator then this problem of f1 came about i was able to turn the boiler off and on and it would go but its getting more regular and needing more off and ons I was thinking of testing for voltage to the solenoid during the ignition phase to just make sure I was getting voltage There ?

 

[gazdaz36]

Just a possibility but with you saying that the F1 fault started after changing the valve could you of disturbed the connections to the zig ignitor, that is just to the left hand side of the diverter assembly. If it's original it will be a little black box with a screw holding it onto the casing

 

[bazzjohnson]

That's a good idea I tried to unplug that because it was in the way I'm at work but will look at that when I get home what is it for ? Would I be able to hear the boiler tryIng to ignite if that was dodgy ?