Grundfoss UPS 3 settings

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I installed a DAB Evosta 3 exactly a year ago yesterday, all ok until yesterday, when the boiler continued to cut out on over temperature, lots of banging and crashing. My heating engineer tried lots of things but made no difference, eventually I decided to swop the pump, installed a grundfoss UPS 3 and now everything ok. Can’t believe the DAB failed after less than a year. Have emailed DAB and the seller.
Re the UPS3, on another forum it said the display shows power use, but to me it simply displays the pump setting, is that correct ? The default is constant curve 3, should I leave it like this, or should I try CC 2 or 1 ?

many thanks
 
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It very much depends on your system design, its size, and its condition.
I suggest using the lowest speed that will ensure proper function of the heating system, so try setting 2. Do all the rads get to the correct temperature? No banging and crashing?
Feel or measure the boiler's flow and return pipework. Is the flow pipe about 10C hotter than the return pipe? If less than this you can try pump speed 1. If greater than 20C then try a higher speed.
Once the speed setting has been established press and hold the pump's setting button until the green lamp flashes. The pump will then modulate according to the load, up to the maximum you have set.
The UPS3 does not have any power display....it does on my Alpha2. A bit of a gimmick, though if it reads correctly I'm now burning 10W to do the work that 50W used to do on my old pump.

MM
 
Hello

Does a power flush remove calcium deposits from the heat exchanger?

Also I don’t believe I have a sludge build up. Up to 2 years ago, I drained the system every two years and every so often used the flushing chemical, but always put new inhibitor in the system, the flushed water was always clear. The radiators up to a few days ago all got very hot throughout, two days ago the boiler started making banging and crashing noises then shutdown. I called in a heating engineer, who checked the condensate trap, ignition etc. and determined it must be the pump, so I replaced the year old DAB Evosta 3 with a Grundfoss, but although all was good when first heating up for an hour or so from cold, once it got hot the banging and crashing returned followed by the boiler shutting down. So I assume the pump was not at fault. The only other suspect according to my H.E. Is that the heat exchanger is fouled, but I thought this would have been a problem during today when it was heating from cold.

Would appreciate comments, if you also feel it could be the heat exchanger fouling. And a power flush won’t resolve this, then my best option is a new boiler, but not sure if I also need a power flush.

Thanks
 
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what boiler do you have and is the pump wired directly back to boiler
 
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Hello

Does a power flush remove calcium deposits from the heat exchanger?

Also I don’t believe I have a sludge build up. Up to 2 years ago, I drained the system every two years and every so often used the flushing chemical, but always put new inhibitor in the system, the flushed water was always clear. The radiators up to a few days ago all got very hot throughout, two days ago the boiler started making banging and crashing noises then shutdown. I called in a heating engineer, who checked the condensate trap, ignition etc. and determined it must be the pump, so I replaced the year old DAB Evosta 3 with a Grundfoss, but although all was good when first heating up for an hour or so from cold, once it got hot the banging and crashing returned followed by the boiler shutting down. So I assume the pump was not at fault. The only other suspect according to my H.E. Is that the heat exchanger is fouled, but I thought this would have been a problem during today when it was heating from cold.

Would appreciate comments, if you also feel it could be the heat exchanger fouling. And a power flush won’t resolve this, then my best option is a new boiler, but not sure if I also need a power flush.

Thanks
Are you sure power is getting to the pump? If not, perhaps because a wire has come adrift, it could explain the banging. Easy enough to check with a multimeter
 
could be the pcb in boiler not sending power to the pump all the time hence the banging as it overheats . if you can stick your pump on a lead and plug it into a normal socket and leave it running if there is no banging then this suggests a pcb / boiler stat fault
 
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could be the pcb in boiler not sending power to the pump all the time hence the banging as it overheats . if you can stick your pump on a lead and plug it into a normal socket and leave it running if there is no banging then this suggests a pcb / boiler stat fault
Could be wrong, but I'd have thought if the boiler control-stat is faulty but the pump is OK, it would go out on the limit-stat without the banging.
 
Could be wrong, but I'd have thought if the boiler control-stat is faulty but the pump is OK, it would go out on the limit-stat without the banging.
stat might just be intermittently breaking down inside at any temp and not giving power through it back to pcb so it not actually overheating to limit stat temp. which is why sticking pump on flying lead will then give a better idea where fault lies
 
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