Thanks for the link. The aim is to hear the TV without it blasting out to the annoyance of others. Although even then yes it's the quality that's the issue. As soon as I plug in ear phones etc the sound is killed from the TV which of course might be the same with a sound bar? At present I can get by with wifi headphones. The transmitter being connected to a tv in another room whilst I watch with others in another room. Which is fine for live TV but not recorded
The answer is the Digital Optical out so long as your main TV has one. It also depends whether you watch via the PVR acting as the TV tuner so you get the advantage of live pause, or if you only put the PVR on when there's something recorded that you want to watch.
If you want better sound for everyone in the living room but also better sound for you via the headphones then we need two audio feeds. One which will feed a sound bar, and the other which will feed your headphones. A sound bar with an optical input would be the most appropriate solution for the general living room. This is because the audio connection is a better quality (less hiss) than you get with headphone jack. It also means that the sound bar will be usable with the next TV upgrade.
You see, headphone jack is becoming an endangered species. Fewer TVs feature it. Who knows; in 3-5 years time when you're ready for your next telly there might not be a headphone jack at all, and that means a perfectly good sound bar becomes useless with the new TV. This is exactly what's happened with Audio Out on TVs. That was quietly dropped years ago. Oh, people still think there's audio out because they look at the back and see a red and a white phono socket and automatically assume that it's there. But they aren't out sockets. They're Audio IN, and they go with Component In (the red, green, blue sockets) or Composite IN (the yellow socket). These are not Audio Exit sockets; they Audio Entrance sockets, and it doesn't matter what you connect up or which adapters you use, nothing in the world will change a socket labelled Audio IN in to an Exit socket.
SCART, if a full SCART socket is present, does support Audio Out but with a big
big caveat; it's
only the Freeview tuner audio. That's great for watching Freeview live, but no use at all for anything connected to a HDMI or AV input to the TV.
What we have then are a couple of possible solutions.
#1) The first is a sound bar connected to the Optical of the TV. Whatever is seen on the TV screen the sound for it will come out of the soundbar. Optical out works
even if the TV speakers are muted. That means you could plug in the Bluetooth headphones to the jack and get sound without killing audio for everyone else. This will work for any audio from the TV, so the TV tuner, apps, HDMI inputs, SCART input; the whole bag of smashing, all covered. Job done.
#2) Bearing in mind what might happen in the future with headphone jack, if you do change the TV and there isn't a jack socket then you'll need some other way of getting sound for the headphones. The answer is an Optical splitter (one socket split in to two), and then an Optical to Analogue Audio Converter connected to one of the two Optical outs. It may also need a headphone pre-amp to make the output level suitable for connecting to the Bluetooth transmitter.
The thing is you don't need to worry about this right now. Cross that bridge when you come to it. Solution #1 does everything you need immediately.
Good luck