Heatmiser wet UFH without a wiring centre

Joined
14 Nov 2012
Messages
14
Reaction score
1
Location
Hampshire
Country
United Kingdom
I currently have a Glow-Worm Flexicom CX30 combi boiler servicing hot water and around 10 radiators. The boiler has a pump built into it, so it's not a separate device in the pipe work.

I am in the middle of building an extension, and we're just about to put in UFH. As the room is 9.7m x 5.1m internally, we discussed our requirements with an underfloor heating supply company and they helped specify what we would need. It was agreed to split the pipe runs into 4 sections, purely so that the room has 4 'zones' but controlled as one circuit with a single thermostat and to help the heat get around the room in a more even fashion.

The parts were ordered a while back (I work as and when I can amid being a full time carer for my wife), and now I have started unpacking the components we ordered and working out what goes where in the system. I'm kind of building it dry on a bench to get the layout clear in my mind before I will be transferring it to the location it is to be installed at.

Here lies my first challenge. The items ordered, while coming with basic instructions, are a bit of a jigsaw puzzle to connect together, but the thing that really threw me were 4 off 240v actuators, a Heatmiser RF-Switch, and a Heatmiser RF Thermostat. Upon further investigation, no wiring centre was included in the bundle of items we have bought. Even though the room is to be split into 4 'sections', one single Thermostat is going to be controlling the whole of the ufh, and as I couldn't see how to connect 4 240v actuators I contacted the supplier. They advised me that the manual actuators that are already on the 4 port manifold will be sufficient for now, and then I can choose to move to the 240v actuators (each controlled by a different thermostat) if we ever decide to have separate zones in the new room. This makes me wonder why they even suggested we buy them now, if they're going to be an ornament.

I have spoken to Heatmiser and they told me that even if the 4 ports are to be considered as a single zone, there still needs to be a wiring centre in the system, otherwise how would I wire in the pump, actuators, etc., but when I relayed that information to the supplier and asked if there had been any oversight, I was told that the CH port on the RF-Switch is effectively a single port wiring centre and there's no need for an additional one, and doesn't need me to use any of the actuators they sold me, stating one again that these are for future-proofing.

My trouble is that I can't get it clear in my head if that's true or not, and if it is correct, how am I supposed to wire in the pump, etc. into the system, and also integrate it into our existing central heating system. I'm not suggesting it's beyond me, but another issue that is bugging me is that there's no valve to divert water into the UFH part of the circuit separately to the rest of the CH system, so if either our existing thermostat or the UFH thermostat calls for heating, both parts of the circuit will go on, which is, in a way, fine, as if it's cold enough for either thermostat to go on then we probably want heating in the house and the extension to go on together. Or, will the fact that the pump in the UFH part of the circuit won't be on if the other thermostat turns on the boiler be sufficient to minimise the water flowing around the UFH part?

So many questions, so few answers.

Maybe I should do away with the old thermostat altogether and just wire in the new one to control both heating and UFH together, but that will more than likely require me to purchase a wiring centre in that instance.

I sent an email back to Heatmiser earlier and I'm awaiting a reply from them, but in the mean time I'd welcome any thoughts on my situation.

Thank you if you managed to read through all the above and understand it. I try to include as much information that I think will be relevant so as to minimise back-and-forth comments where I try to fill in blanks, but that sometimes means I start waffling on too much.
 
Sponsored Links
You need to have your underfloor and rads separated with zone valves so you can have just under floor on a different timer as it needs to be on longer as it’s not as reactive as rads.
the underfloor can be switched by its own programmed thermostat operating the zone vale and the valve will switch the underfloor pump and boiler on .no actuators are required.
 
That makes a lot of sense cross thread. I wonder why they even supplied the actuators with the other components, as they seem to be items that aren't required for the system we want. I will have to look into getting zone valves.

I'm still confused as to whether a wiring centre is required or not. Can't seem to find anything that shows an installation without one, and now we're talking about zones with valves to control them, it seems a must-have.
 
with energy costs being an average of £5000 per annum (for a largish home) you should now be looking at making right rather than making do.
£800 gets you a rinnai combi that can be set to use circuit flow for your UFH. No need for a thermostat once you have established the flow temp and fully automatic. Let the boiler decide...run 24/7. Will give an ROI over 2 winters at most.
Or your could still try and bodge your combi to be all things to all needs...ps you know that is never going to work.
 
Sponsored Links
It's finally time for me to describe how I solved the problem (and it's really only been during the past week that we finally have everything plumbed in and connected up, and I can honestly say that spending a little time figuring out how to wire and plumb the system so I was clear about the setup was just what I needed to get everything working first go without any major incident along the way!

I had to buy two zone valves. Then, I needed to change the wiring of the system from what it was:

Existing.png


To what I needed:

Proposed.png


And I hope these diagrams that I created myself to make sure I had it clear what was what will help anyone who is in a similar situation.

I had a couple of minor leaks from the manifold, which I have now fixed, and the system is purring along nicely.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top