Help installing DT92E Wireless Stat
- Thread starter cmulhere
- Start date
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I have the exact same set up as described in this post previously DT92E and Honeywell wiring centre. I have wired it up as previously mentioned however no luck.
Live and Neutral of relay connected up to programmer L & N
Relay A and B connected up to Room Stat connectors 1 and 3.
Relay switches when heat needed. When relay switches on I measure continuity between relay A and B but no voltage. When it switches off no continuity, obviously no voltage.
From the Honeywell wiring diagrams I see that there was supposed to be an internal link between the relay internal connectors however as previously described in this post I have taken these out now having put them in earlier. ( Could this have blown relay?)
From using a multimeter I measure 240V constantly between terminals 1 and 3 on the wiring centre no matter what setting of Central heating on the programmer.
I have a ST9400c programmer if this makes a difference. Apart from calling in the expensive experts what else can I do?
Live and Neutral of relay connected up to programmer L & N
Relay A and B connected up to Room Stat connectors 1 and 3.
Relay switches when heat needed. When relay switches on I measure continuity between relay A and B but no voltage. When it switches off no continuity, obviously no voltage.
From the Honeywell wiring diagrams I see that there was supposed to be an internal link between the relay internal connectors however as previously described in this post I have taken these out now having put them in earlier. ( Could this have blown relay?)
From using a multimeter I measure 240V constantly between terminals 1 and 3 on the wiring centre no matter what setting of Central heating on the programmer.
I have a ST9400c programmer if this makes a difference. Apart from calling in the expensive experts what else can I do?
That's correct.
I assume you are locating the relay box where the old Room Stat used to be.
If you mean no voltage between A and B when relay is on, there won't be any. You have to measure between A and N or B and N.
The only link show in the diagram is between L and A. You don't need this for your set up.
If you did link A to B it would not short the relay, just override the thermostat.
T1 is usually the permanent supply to the wiring centre; T2 is normally neutral and T3 earth.
It shouldn't!
You should be getting 240Vac between Relay A and N when CH is turned on at the programmer.
Thanks for the prompt reply. This is not to replace any previous stat that was fitted this is to add some extra control as bored on relying on programmer and boiler stat to regulate heat in house. I will break the multimeter out and have a look again when not working.
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Ah! So terminals 1 and 3 refer to terminals on the boiler.
It would be helpful to know which make and exact model boiler you have.
No terminals 1 & 3 are on the wiring centre. I am confusing things with mentioning the heat controller on the boiler and calling it a stat.
Then terminals 1 and 3 are obviously not the correct ones to use!
The heat controller on the boiler is a stat - usually referred to as the boiler stat - it sets the maximum temperature of the water circulating round the system.
How many motorized valves do you have and which type (see pics)?
View media item 5946 View media item 11762
The one valve I have is a honeywell three port,( Y Plan set up ). To get the Thermostat working I was thinking of using the relay to intercept the feed from the programmer to the wiring centre.
If I was to connect the CH programmer output to port A on the RF Relay relay and then connect Relay port B into CH ON ( where programmer output normally was ) then this should work, shouldnt it???????????
By setting programmer to constant CH then this set up should let me have full control via the thermostat.
On a separate matter just fitted a new powerhead onto the Honeywell valve ( V4073 I think ). I had to change the whole valve over a year ago but didn't change the powerhead as old one was working fine. The old one has given up now so I fitted the new one. The new ones gearbox was jumping. The brass cog moved by the AC motor was slipping off the top of the cog and so gentle persuassion with a slot head managed to realign it.
Only problem now is I obviously have moved something else as when the motor moves the THINGY to activate the two micro switches they close and power to the motor then turns off leaving the springs to pull the THINGY away from the micro switches which reactivates the motor which re engages the THINGY onto the micro switches so you get this constant clicking.
Luckily the boiler and pump still remain active through this so heating doesn't continually turn on and off. The only side effect of this is a constant clicking noise from the head and a reduced lifetime of the gearbox no doubt.
Might have to ask this on a seperate forum which I will worry about later.
If I was to connect the CH programmer output to port A on the RF Relay relay and then connect Relay port B into CH ON ( where programmer output normally was ) then this should work, shouldnt it???????????
By setting programmer to constant CH then this set up should let me have full control via the thermostat.
On a separate matter just fitted a new powerhead onto the Honeywell valve ( V4073 I think ). I had to change the whole valve over a year ago but didn't change the powerhead as old one was working fine. The old one has given up now so I fitted the new one. The new ones gearbox was jumping. The brass cog moved by the AC motor was slipping off the top of the cog and so gentle persuassion with a slot head managed to realign it.
Only problem now is I obviously have moved something else as when the motor moves the THINGY to activate the two micro switches they close and power to the motor then turns off leaving the springs to pull the THINGY away from the micro switches which reactivates the motor which re engages the THINGY onto the micro switches so you get this constant clicking.
Luckily the boiler and pump still remain active through this so heating doesn't continually turn on and off. The only side effect of this is a constant clicking noise from the head and a reduced lifetime of the gearbox no doubt.
Might have to ask this on a seperate forum which I will worry about later.
That's correct.
Find the terminal with the white wire from the motorized valve. The other wire connected to the same terminal is from the CH ON of the programmer. So you just need to connect A to the CH ON wire and B to the white wire using a spare terminal.
This would be true for a programmable stat, but you have been talking about the DT92E, which is not programmable.
Brilliant just got it all working thanks to your help. Have an extra sugar in your tea or something stronger if you like you deserve it. I really appreciate your time.
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