if its a case that later on down the lin you need to get it replaced and you need to get scaff back i would replace it now mate you dnt wanna have to pay for stuff twice do ya.
Help To Fill A Deep Crack
- Thread starter WhiteVanJack
- Start date
Sponsored Links
- Joined
- 2 Jul 2010
- Messages
- 237
- Reaction score
- 4
- Country
Is it a general builder, bricklayer or stonemason that I should ask for quotes for a replacement?
Rgds
Jack
i would imagin a builder or bricklayer would be able to carry out this work its not a hard job to do
if it was me i would follow the instructions on the link, if you find out you cant do it then you get the builder in, the first thing would be to source your window cill then follow the instructions, i dont think there is much that could go wrong, take out and replace like for like.
Sponsored Links
P
plstering
if your going too replace it
you can get them made in the work shop made too size and fitted on site
or you can cast then on site your self m8 its **** easy
all you need too get right is the ply frame work
then fit in place and cast on site.
I use a 4:1:1 face coating 4 builders sand 1 cement 1 lime and a good mold release agent on the wood first. (cooking oil)
but you need too make a drip on the bottom of the cill if you dont
and the water runs back too the wall your snookerd.
back too the casting 4:1:1 face coating maybe even a bit of yellow cement dye with a dash of water proofer
the body on the cill 4:1 concrete mix with rapped hardener in it leen mix not too wet.
with steell rebar drilled in too the brick work and fixed with two part Resin
line the bottom and sides with the face coating say 2" thick then start too fill with the concrete filling it 2" first then drop in one or two lenths of rebar pointing side to side finish off 2" fron the top then add your face coating rule off let it pull in then lighty sponge off leave it say 4/5 days then remove the fram work there you go sorted
you can get them made in the work shop made too size and fitted on site
or you can cast then on site your self m8 its **** easy
all you need too get right is the ply frame work
then fit in place and cast on site.
I use a 4:1:1 face coating 4 builders sand 1 cement 1 lime and a good mold release agent on the wood first. (cooking oil)
but you need too make a drip on the bottom of the cill if you dont
and the water runs back too the wall your snookerd.
back too the casting 4:1:1 face coating maybe even a bit of yellow cement dye with a dash of water proofer
the body on the cill 4:1 concrete mix with rapped hardener in it leen mix not too wet.
with steell rebar drilled in too the brick work and fixed with two part Resin
line the bottom and sides with the face coating say 2" thick then start too fill with the concrete filling it 2" first then drop in one or two lenths of rebar pointing side to side finish off 2" fron the top then add your face coating rule off let it pull in then lighty sponge off leave it say 4/5 days then remove the fram work there you go sorted
P
plstering
when i was working for a window firm we was casting cills on site in london as you cant get a good turn around with casting firms all the time we even had too bead up some cills and use weber ocr one coat over the old cill after needle guning it and sbr primer. really good finish with weber pral m top coat scrached back
PS hire a ally tower not scaff most my rendering and cills 99% outdoor work i doo is off ally owers and duck boards
PS hire a ally tower not scaff most my rendering and cills 99% outdoor work i doo is off ally owers and duck boards
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
