Hip hip

[chirpychippy]

Not Hooray....

Hips, I have always struggled with Hip Rafters, they are my nemesis on cut and pitch.

Generally out comes the ready reckoner and I use this to find the hip length.

I know about shortening and set back and dropping the hip but even still something goes awry.

I have a equal pitched hipped roof coming up imminently, over the weekend I cut both ends, the part that sits between the Common and the Crown rafter and the the opposite end that sits on the plate.

It's is worth noting that each hip is a double 9x2. Thereof I'm just going to measure the gap and hope it works once cut.

If anyone can give me any advice for cutting hips it would be appreciated, Thank you

 

[noseall]

Not Hooray....

Hips, I have always struggled with Hip Rafters, they are my nemesis on cut and pitch.

Generally out comes the ready reckoner and I use this to find the hip length.

I know about shortening and set back and dropping the hip but even still something goes awry.

I have a equal pitched hipped roof coming up imminently, over the weekend I cut both ends, the part that sits between the Common and the Crown rafter and the the opposite end that sits on the plate.

It's is worth noting that each hip is a double 9x2. Thereof I'm just going to measure the gap and hope it works once cut.

If anyone can give me any advice for cutting hips it would be appreciated, Thank you

We mock up a top and bottom pair of Jack's and fix them in place and set them in plane (with the commons). We have the compound cuts touching and fixed together.
We then lay a straight edge board, on the tips of these Jack's, so as to give the true pitch angle of the hip. We then strike a vertical pencil line onto the board so we can obtain the plumb cut, then transfer this to a bevel.

Once you have this crucial angle on your bevel, it's just a case of measuring. If you are not 100% confident, just try your angles on a scrap length of wood.

 

[chirpychippy]

Cheers Noseall,

This actually makes alot of sense.

Thank you.

 

[noseall]

Cheers Noseall,

This actually makes alot of sense.

Thank you.

A lot of head scratching, I agree.

Once you have this plumb cut worked out, along with the distances between plumb cuts on your top and bottom (wall plate) birdsmouth, its just a case of understanding that the whole thing just slides down vertically onto position. In other words, you just take more material off the seat cuts (which are obviously 90 degree angle to the plumb cut), in order for the whole hip blade to vertically slot into plane.

Don't forget to nip off the corners of the wall plate so that your bottom plumb cut is striking summat solid instead of a pointy corner.

Don't forget your dragon ties.

 

[chirpychippy]

Yeh I was umming and arghing about nipping the corner off, as its effectively a 4x9 sitting on a 2 inch corner, but tbh I'll do it anyway.

The other option is to set the plumb cut on the building line forwards to create a 45 degree plumb cut, but that's just a ball ache, I've got the chainsaw in the van!!!!!, incase I want to make my life harder.

Dragon Tie, I've got ply and and twisted wall ties......

Fingers crossed, thank you again Noseall

 

[noseall]

Cheers Noseall,

You're welcome.
The good thing about mocking up a couple of pairs of jacks, along with their compound cuts, is they can be re-used, once the hip is fixed.

 

[chirpychippy]

Thank you Noseall,

I did a direct measure on the hips and cut one side of one hip to see, fortunately it was spot on - this became the template for all.the others, a bit of jiggery pokery, Hips and Valley done, infilled with Jack's, fascia and soffit tomorrow.

I will try your pairing the Jack's method to learn the method "strings and bows" but this job was time sensitive and i couldn't afford the time to experiment and learn.

Thanks again.

 

[noseall]

Top job.