Honeywell CM927, HR80UK not binding to HC60

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Has anyone managed to get a CM927, HR80UK and a HC60 setup to work correctly, if so how. :cry:

I can get the CM927 to send set points to the HR80UK, I can get the CM927 to switch the boiler on via the HC60 but I can't get the HR80UK to switch the boiler on when the CM927 is in a room with no demand. Basically the CM927 is only controlling the boiler on off cycle and the HR80UK is controlling to temp when the boiler is running.

Hope someone can help as I like the setup :D

Thanks
Wils
 
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What makes you think this set up has any prospect of working?

Where have you been informed that it would?
 
Instruction manual for CM927 page 11 section 5.2 states that it is compatible with the HR80. I can get it to work as already described.

Have you got one and thinking of getting the HR80'?
 
Has anyone managed to get a CM927, HR80UK and a HC60 setup to work correctly, if so how. :cry:

I can get the CM927 to send set points to the HR80UK, I can get the CM927 to switch the boiler on via the HC60 but I can't get the HR80UK to switch the boiler on when the CM927 is in a room with no demand. Basically the CM927 is only controlling the boiler on off cycle and the HR80UK is controlling to temp when the boiler is running.

Hope someone can help as I like the setup :D

Thanks
Wils

The 927 does work with the HR80/ HC60 setup but the instructions for setting them up together are very sketchy.
Here's how I set mine up (from memory)....
Set the 927 to use ext control temp sensor ie HR80 (and just display room temp on 927 if you want). ie.Set Parameter 8 to 1 or 4)
Do a full reset on HC60 by holding the button in for >15 seconds.
Reset all your HR80's by holding the bind button in whilst installing the batteries.
Put all HR80's for that zone in binding mode by pressing the bind button (the antenna symbol will flash on the display)
Bind the 927 to the HR80's by switching the 927 to Off and then pressing the up and down temp buttons and selecting Co (or maybe Con) on the display with the < or > keys....(That bit is not in any of the setup manuals AFAIK).
Once the HR80's are bound to the 927 the antenna symbol will stop flashing.
Next put the HC60 in teach-in mode and bind the HR80'S to it.
To do this put the 927 in bind mode as above except with the < or > buttons select Bo instead of Co(or maybe it's Boi). Put the HR80's in bind mode again and they will then bind with the HC60 boiler relay.
Once setup as above the 927 will send temperature set-points to the HR80's and the HR80's will turn the boiler on and off via the HC60 (depending on the room temp around the HR80).

After you've got it working another thing to watch out for if using none Honeywell valves is the length of the valve spindle. I used Drayton valve bases and the spindles are about 4mm too long so need cutting down with a Dremel. Before I cut mine back the HR80's where closing the rad valves when they thought they where only throttling them back. This meant the room would almost but not quite achieve the set temp and hence the boiler would run all night chucking most of the heat through my towel rail.

Dave
 
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Dave

You are a star

Just gone through what you said, didn't even know there was another boiler teach in mode, this was the vital piece of information missing from anything that I have seen, don't know where you got it from but thank you.

This is how I set the system up for info, (if only honeywell had published this)

1.Reset the HR80 (remove battery, press bind button, replace battery)
2. Put HR80 into bind mode, by presing bind button
3. On the CM927 press the temp up/down buttons and 'scroll left' button at the same time to get into bind mode, the display will show InSt Co.
4. Press the enter button on the CM927 and Sync should appear on the HK80. (The setpoint can now be sent from the CM927 to the HR80)
5. Press the button on the HC60 for more than 15 secs to get a reset, release and press for a further 5 secs to get into bind mode, the LED will flash diferently.
6. This is the vital step, On the CM927 press the temp up/down buttons and 'scroll left' button at the same time to get into bind mode, the display will show InSt Co. NOW press the 'scroll right' button and InSt Bo will appear (if you press again synchro will appear which hints at adding further controllers) make sure InSt Bo appears by pressing the scroll buttons.
7. Put the HR80 into bind mode again
8. Press the enter button on the CM927, the HR80 is now bound to the HC60 and will switch it on and off.
9. Put the HC60 back into bind mode by pressing the button for approx 5sec (flashing light will come on).
10. On the CM927 press the temp up/down buttons and 'scroll left' button at the same time to get into bind mode, the display will show InSt Co.
11. Now press the enter button on the CM927, this will now bind the CM927 to the HC60 as well.
12. If you set parameter 8 to 3 the HC60 will be controlled by both the CM927 and the HR80 independently :D

Simple when the information is vailable
 
Dave

I'll have to monitor the situation with the valve base, it seems to be working OK but I have been concentrating on the binding process so may not have noticed it.

Wils
 
HR80UK automatically senses valve stroke on Drayton, Oventrop, Danfoss etc and reconfigures accordingly.

I've got 26 in my house (working on danfoss valves) via Hometronic.
 
HR80UK automatically senses valve stroke on Drayton, Oventrop, Danfoss etc and reconfigures accordingly.

I've got 26 in my house (working on danfoss valves) via Hometronic.

I know that they are supposed to within certain valve travels. The travels listed are from the 30mm thread to the top of the pin AFAIK. The pin on the drayton valves is too long in relation to the top of the 30mm thread and falls outside the honeywell spec. This means with the HR80 at the fully open mechanical limit and the unit fully screwed down on the 30mm valve threads the valve will actually be almost closed.
I had 4x TRV4 valves and 6 of the cheaper Drayton valves and had major problems with boiler cycling especially when the ambient temp was within 2-3C of the set temp. Initially I cured it by unscrewing the HR80 by about 3mm on the 30mm valve threads. Then I chopped about 3-4 mm off the end of the valve spindles & screwed the HR80's fully down on the valves.
My HR80uk software is V2.03
It's easy to check by screwing the bottom part of the HR80 onto your valve and rotating the planetary gear until it reaches the stop at which point the valve should be fully open for best performance. This is easy to check before the valve is fitted but if the valve is already fitted you should feel 'all' resistance on the planetary gear stop before the end stop is reached.
If you google boiler cycling with CM Zone you will find this is a common problem
Dave
 

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