Honeywell VC4613 actuator or two way valve?

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Sussex
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Hi Everyone,

Few weeks ago my Potterton Suprima 80 started to behave incorrectly. It simply couldn't stop and kept running even when CH and HW are both set on oFF. The only way to stop boiler from running was to manually turn off the boiler.

Boiler engineer has found the issue relatively quickly. He said that 2way valve should be replaced. While he was looking for the problem i've noticed that he is touching small spring inside the actuator itself. In fact after he touched that little spring Boiler managed to stop running few more times properly and than got back to "incorrect mode".

I did not like the idea of draining the whole system (that's what he told me) so i made my little research around honeywell products. I've found that there 3 options:

1. Replace just actuator
2. Replace cartridge inside the valve
3. Replace the valve and the actuator.


I am not a plumber, I am just a person who doesn't want to be ripped by someone who wants to drain the system w/o actual need of doing that.
So i decided to go for option 1.

I bought VC4613AG (valve + actuator) from the internet. It comes w/o molex plug just bare wires. My old actuator was connected in the same way.
So after writing down existing wiring i have replaced the actuator by connecting new wires exactly as they were wired with old model.

I've tested CH and HW switches by turning them on and off. Boiler was operating as expected. After several tests i decided to heat just water.
Boiler got locked out after aprox after 40 minutes. Now it has a red light with no possible reset.

After examining actuator it seems that something is jammed. If i remove actuator and set it back when CH and HW are off it works only for 1 minute and then it gets "jammed" again.
If i remove the actuator and set CH and HW to ON and then put actuator it would work until i turn off HW.
At least i know it's not Boiler and it's not Boiler's PCB (the worst nightmare for all Potterton owners that can happen)


My guess:

1. Old cartridge inside the valve in combination with new actuator's spring?
2. Concerned about the wiring of actuator ( the serial number 1:1 match old one, however there's a slight difference my old actuator had AUX/SW. The one I bought CAB/SW)


Any comments or suggestions would be much appreciated!
Many thanks in advance!!


Regards,
MJ
 
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With the head removed from the body, can you easily press and move the spindle in and out? You will have to use something to protect your finger(a coin) when pressing. If difficult to move then the cartridge is seized and needs renewal.
 
I've compared how tight spindle is in new valve and in old one...
I'd say they look the same. I took a flat screwdriver and pressed in and out.
It doesn't seem that cartridge is seized.

Another thing is that i've put new actuator in parallel to valve. Old one was 90 degree( perpendicular to valve).
Reading the manual both ways are fine only manual switch won't be working in parallel.

Can this be an issue?
 

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