Hotpoint Aquarius WD420 wont dry

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We have a Hotpoint WD420 which has stopped drying, it washes fine but the clothes come out just as wet after the drying cycle. Is this something I could fix myself?
thanks
 
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Are the clothes coming out hot and wet or cold and wet?
The first would indicate a problem with either the condenser unit or inlet valve.
The latter indicates a problem with the heater, thermostats or wiring.
 
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lynda, moderator

Please note forum rule 20.

I was not able to split your hi-jacking and have it make sense.
 
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A rather late answer, but it might help someone....

Isolate the supply and remove the top cover (two screws at the rear and then slide it towards the rear). In the top of the alloy duct is a temperature control and an over temperature trip switch. It also has an heater element and a fan in the duct.

This duct tends to block with fluff, which can cause the over temperature trip to open. Once tripped it is normally a throw away and replace part. Take the top of the duct off (6 or so T type bolts), clean out the duct, check the fan spins freely and check the continuity of the smaller of the two back objects, with two spade terminals wired in series with the heater element.

If it is O/C you have found the problem and can either replace it or try the following fix...

Looking at the black plastic side, between the two spade terminals you should see a dimple in the moulding. If you very carefully drill a tiny hole through at the dimple (1.5mm or so), without going through beyond the plastic, then insert a watchmakers screwdriver or a straightened paperclip and push gently, you should feel it click just once as the bi-metal disk inside resets. Reassemble and all should be well.

I have posted another cheap fix elsewhere for what may be the oft reported main PCB failure of this machine.
 
You are welcome - Happy to be able to help :)

Of course if the manufacturer had paid the penny extra cost for the bit of plastic button to reset it (the trips come in two versions), there would have been no need to mess about drilling the hole....
 
Ah but mine are coming out hot and wet! Have you a solution for that as well?
 
Cleared filter (found £2.50p!) but still not satisfied with drying. Previous post pointed to Condenser or inlet valve. Can somebody amplify that possible solution or give me indication of the location of those items please?
 
Still not satisfied with drying cycle. Spin cycle is satisfactory. At end of drying cycle lots of steam and clothes are hot but not apparently a lot dryer than after spin cycle.
Have cleared filter at output pipe and clearly hot air is being generated and as far as I can tell circulating fan is operating O.K.
Where else do I look?
Is steam not being condensed? How is that supposed to happen? What am I missing!!
 
Thanks Harry for your reset switch post!!
What a great find, worked perfectly!
Thanks :)


Joe from Jersey
 
Still not satisfied with drying cycle. Spin cycle is satisfactory. At end of drying cycle lots of steam and clothes are hot but not apparently a lot dryer than after spin cycle.
Have cleared filter at output pipe and clearly hot air is being generated and as far as I can tell circulating fan is operating O.K.
Where else do I look?
Is steam not being condensed? How is that supposed to happen? What am I missing!!

I don't know the fine details, but generally a condensing drier works as follows...

The moist air from the drum, is drawn through a duct with a heater inside it, the heater element prevented from over heating by a thermal trip switch. that part would seem to be working, if the clothes are warm.

It also goes through a duct cooled by a flow of cold water, the moisture being condensed out of the air, which then goes out to the drain. It sounds as if this part might not be working, perhaps no flow of water.
 
A slightly easier method to fix the thermostat without drilling is as follows. Once you have removed the thermostat hold it with the terminals upwards and then sharply tap it down onto a hard surface making sure it hits squarely. The shock of hitting the surface will in most cases pop the internal metal disc back into position restoring continuity and therefore function.
 

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