Hello
I just thought I'd share my experience of changing the drum bearings on my Hotpoint WMA48 Washing Machine.
The spin cycle on this machine had recently become so noisy, it hurt my ears. I looked around the web for possible solutions and, as always, quickly added more useless knowledge to my poor brain
Anyway, I'm a 'DIY'er and I fixed it so, for the benefit of others, here's what i did.
(please bear in mind, I had no prior experience with washing machines before this but I'm pretty handy. Also note that my way might not be the only / best way, but I did it and it works fine - took around 4 - 5 hours in total. I could do it quicker now)
Firstly (once you've decided that the bearings are gone / on their way out) UNPLUG THE MAIN POWER . Don't just turn it off, actually disconnect the plug.
TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY and drain the pipes (water all over the floor if not!)
Once these are done, we can begin.
Take off the top lid (two small caps near the front on either side, screw either side)
Remove front panel (unclip small bottom panel (it just unclips) to reveal lower screws) Remove 3 screws from powder tray. Carefully remove knobs and button panel (I didn't disconnect this, just tied it up out of the way)
Now you can see the top screws for the front panel. You also need to unscrew the door latch as it's connected with a wire on the other side. Also, unhook the wire around the rubber door seal and peel the seal back.
Once off, you have pretty good access to all you need.
Take off the two concrete weights (one at the front, one on top)
Disconnect all the wires from the drum and motor. You can remove the motor too (two 13mm bolts). Take off the belt first(be careful of fingers but slowly rotate the drum whilst slowly working the belt off. Take it off the drum pulley rather than the motor as the pulley is smooth but the motor has grooves.
You also need to disconnect the drain underneath (jubilee clip - the machine will easily lay back to get to it, since the concrete blocks have been removed)
Also disconnect the main fill hose from under the powder tray (top left, front of the drum) The clamp simply pushes apart (twist the teeth away from each other; top to bottom. Putting it back on, it simply pushes and clicks back together)
Now, the drum is held in place by two big springs at the top and two dampers below (they look a bit like draw runners.)
The dampers at the bottom are held in place by a single, plastic 'pin' on each side. They have a 'tab' on the far side (looking from the front) which pops out. I pushed the tab back up (flush with the 'pin') then pulled the front of the pin with some grips. Just do it slowly, with a bit if gentle twisting, and it will come out; same for the other side.
Once both are off, just check that nothing else in connected (wires or hoses)
Where the springs attach, to the top sides of the case, are two wire clips. These just pry out. Once removed, the drum can be lifted up and the springs unclipped. Now the drum is free.
The drum is made up of 3 basic parts; the metal, inner drum and two outer, plastic casings (front and back).
I actually undid all the screws (not sure what size but they are those funny star shaped heads. I got my bits with a £2 interchangeable screwdriver set) which hold the two casings together, removed the front part of the casing, then removed the rear casing / drum)
I'm not sure if the whole casing / drum will come out of the machine as one part. Maybe give it a go but do what I did if not. It needs a bit of twisting and turning.
Anyway, once out and with the front casing removed, you need to remove the rear pulley (13mm bolt)
The drum shaft is now exposed as is one of the bearings.
There are three parts that need changing; the back bearing (which we can see), the front bearing (which is a bit bigger and sits behind the drum) and a seal (which also sits behind the drum, on top of the front bearing.
The shaft needs hitting out of the rear casing. I had to hit this REALLY, REALLY hard. I put the bolt tightly back in the thread, placed a 13mm socket over it and hit like hell. Make sure you thoroughly support the plastic casing and protect the drum; you don't want to bend it out of shape or alignment. I placed the front part of the casing back on and supported that. This was the worst part.
Once the drum is out, you are now able to see the seal (which failed and let water into the bearing in the first place) and the inner / front bearing.
Both of these need to be hit out he same way as the drum spindle (towards the inside of the casing) The rear / outer bearing needs to be hit out of the back.
I removed the smaller, rear bearing first. I placed a socket (one which went through the middle of the front bearing but not through the middle of the rear bearing) on a long extension bar and hit it ... really hard again. It takes a while but it did eventually come out.
Once again, makes sure the casing is well supported.
I then tapped out the seal from the back (suitable screw driver or chisel) going from one side to the other (so it didn't pinch on the way out)
With that out of the way I was able to hit the front bearing out similar to the rear.
As I've said, this does take quite a lot of effort (and care) but I did it without pullers of anything more involved that a socket set and simple tools (and a big hammer )
So, once out, I cleaned all sufaces up (bearing seats and drum shaft - the drum shaft is part of what is called the 'spider' This can be replaced too, if it's in bad shape - I didn't bother)
Now, carefully tap the new, inner bearing in (I greased the seat). ONLY 'TAP' IT and ONLY AROUND THE OUTER EDGE (you'll damage the new bearing if you hit it anywhere else). I used a small chisel and tapped a bit on one side, then the other; moving around the edge in small amounts. Check from the back to see if it's fully seated. From the front, it should recess around 5 - 7 mm (enough for the seal to seat)
Once in, do the same with the seal. I tapped this is AROUND THE EDGES with a small piece of wood and a hammer (the wood is used so as not to damage the edges of the seal)
Place the front casing back on and turn it all over (you need to do this so you don't damage the heating element on the floor, cos' it sticks out)
Do the same with the rear bearing until it's flush with the casing.
Now get the drum, place it face down on the floor (I put down a big, padded towel to rest it on, so it didn't get damaged) and carefully slide the rear casing back on. Once the shaft is as far through as it will easily go, get the rear pulley, put it back on, insert the bolt and tighten it up. This will easily pull the drum back into the bearings. Give it a spin and, hopefully, it will be as quite as a new machine.
All that's left then is to re-assemble, which is the reverse of all the above.
Easy. I hope this helps someone like me who couldn't find all the answer on how to do this (or whether it was possible)
I just thought I'd share my experience of changing the drum bearings on my Hotpoint WMA48 Washing Machine.
The spin cycle on this machine had recently become so noisy, it hurt my ears. I looked around the web for possible solutions and, as always, quickly added more useless knowledge to my poor brain
Anyway, I'm a 'DIY'er and I fixed it so, for the benefit of others, here's what i did.
(please bear in mind, I had no prior experience with washing machines before this but I'm pretty handy. Also note that my way might not be the only / best way, but I did it and it works fine - took around 4 - 5 hours in total. I could do it quicker now
)Firstly (once you've decided that the bearings are gone / on their way out) UNPLUG THE MAIN POWER . Don't just turn it off, actually disconnect the plug.
TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY and drain the pipes (water all over the floor if not!)
Once these are done, we can begin.
Take off the top lid (two small caps near the front on either side, screw either side)
Remove front panel (unclip small bottom panel (it just unclips) to reveal lower screws) Remove 3 screws from powder tray. Carefully remove knobs and button panel (I didn't disconnect this, just tied it up out of the way)
Now you can see the top screws for the front panel. You also need to unscrew the door latch as it's connected with a wire on the other side. Also, unhook the wire around the rubber door seal and peel the seal back.
Once off, you have pretty good access to all you need.
Take off the two concrete weights (one at the front, one on top)
Disconnect all the wires from the drum and motor. You can remove the motor too (two 13mm bolts). Take off the belt first(be careful of fingers but slowly rotate the drum whilst slowly working the belt off. Take it off the drum pulley rather than the motor as the pulley is smooth but the motor has grooves.
You also need to disconnect the drain underneath (jubilee clip - the machine will easily lay back to get to it, since the concrete blocks have been removed)
Also disconnect the main fill hose from under the powder tray (top left, front of the drum) The clamp simply pushes apart (twist the teeth away from each other; top to bottom. Putting it back on, it simply pushes and clicks back together)
Now, the drum is held in place by two big springs at the top and two dampers below (they look a bit like draw runners.)
The dampers at the bottom are held in place by a single, plastic 'pin' on each side. They have a 'tab' on the far side (looking from the front) which pops out. I pushed the tab back up (flush with the 'pin') then pulled the front of the pin with some grips. Just do it slowly, with a bit if gentle twisting, and it will come out; same for the other side.
Once both are off, just check that nothing else in connected (wires or hoses)
Where the springs attach, to the top sides of the case, are two wire clips. These just pry out. Once removed, the drum can be lifted up and the springs unclipped. Now the drum is free.
The drum is made up of 3 basic parts; the metal, inner drum and two outer, plastic casings (front and back).
I actually undid all the screws (not sure what size but they are those funny star shaped heads. I got my bits with a £2 interchangeable screwdriver set) which hold the two casings together, removed the front part of the casing, then removed the rear casing / drum)
I'm not sure if the whole casing / drum will come out of the machine as one part. Maybe give it a go but do what I did if not. It needs a bit of twisting and turning.
Anyway, once out and with the front casing removed, you need to remove the rear pulley (13mm bolt)
The drum shaft is now exposed as is one of the bearings.
There are three parts that need changing; the back bearing (which we can see), the front bearing (which is a bit bigger and sits behind the drum) and a seal (which also sits behind the drum, on top of the front bearing.
The shaft needs hitting out of the rear casing. I had to hit this REALLY, REALLY hard. I put the bolt tightly back in the thread, placed a 13mm socket over it and hit like hell. Make sure you thoroughly support the plastic casing and protect the drum; you don't want to bend it out of shape or alignment. I placed the front part of the casing back on and supported that. This was the worst part.
Once the drum is out, you are now able to see the seal (which failed and let water into the bearing in the first place
) and the inner / front bearing. Both of these need to be hit out he same way as the drum spindle (towards the inside of the casing) The rear / outer bearing needs to be hit out of the back.
I removed the smaller, rear bearing first. I placed a socket (one which went through the middle of the front bearing but not through the middle of the rear bearing) on a long extension bar and hit it ... really hard again. It takes a while but it did eventually come out.
Once again, makes sure the casing is well supported.
I then tapped out the seal from the back (suitable screw driver or chisel) going from one side to the other (so it didn't pinch on the way out)
With that out of the way I was able to hit the front bearing out similar to the rear.
As I've said, this does take quite a lot of effort (and care) but I did it without pullers of anything more involved that a socket set and simple tools (and a big hammer
)So, once out, I cleaned all sufaces up (bearing seats and drum shaft - the drum shaft is part of what is called the 'spider' This can be replaced too, if it's in bad shape - I didn't bother)
Now, carefully tap the new, inner bearing in (I greased the seat). ONLY 'TAP' IT and ONLY AROUND THE OUTER EDGE (you'll damage the new bearing if you hit it anywhere else). I used a small chisel and tapped a bit on one side, then the other; moving around the edge in small amounts. Check from the back to see if it's fully seated. From the front, it should recess around 5 - 7 mm (enough for the seal to seat)
Once in, do the same with the seal. I tapped this is AROUND THE EDGES with a small piece of wood and a hammer (the wood is used so as not to damage the edges of the seal)
Place the front casing back on and turn it all over (you need to do this so you don't damage the heating element on the floor, cos' it sticks out)
Do the same with the rear bearing until it's flush with the casing.
Now get the drum, place it face down on the floor (I put down a big, padded towel to rest it on, so it didn't get damaged) and carefully slide the rear casing back on. Once the shaft is as far through as it will easily go, get the rear pulley, put it back on, insert the bolt and tighten it up. This will easily pull the drum back into the bearings. Give it a spin and, hopefully, it will be as quite as a new machine.
All that's left then is to re-assemble, which is the reverse of all the above.
Easy. I hope this helps someone like me who couldn't find all the answer on how to do this (or whether it was possible)
