Hi I have a dividing wall at the side of my garden, I am overlooked by the neighbours so I want to add some vertical brick pillars to the wall and add fence boards between the pillars, what is the best way to attach the wood to the brick pillars, I dont intend using ready made fence panels, the pillars will be about 6 feet tall and about 5 feet between pillars. I expect I will not need planning permission as it is at the side of the garden not the front, thanks
How to attach wood fence to a brick wall
- Thread starter bluesea
- Start date
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Regardless of where the fence may be I think the maximum height, without planning approval, is 2 metres. Therefore your plan to build 2 metre high pillars on top of an existing wall may fall foul of local planning laws.
You will also have to consider the following;
A/ Who owns the existing boundary wall?
B/ If your neighbour, or their landlord, you will need their WRITTEN agreement.
C/ By erecting a higher fence you may be depriving them of the right to light.
If after these, and possibly more questions have been answered then you can consider how you are going to do it.
One way may be to securely screw some channelling to each side of the pillars and simply slot your boards in, though the would probably rattle in the wind.
Another is to fit a single strip of batten vertically to the pillar, nail or screw individual boards to this batten and then ft another batten to the front of these. To prevent shrinkage gaps you could use shiplap boards and overlap them.
You will also have to consider the following;
A/ Who owns the existing boundary wall?
B/ If your neighbour, or their landlord, you will need their WRITTEN agreement.
C/ By erecting a higher fence you may be depriving them of the right to light.
If after these, and possibly more questions have been answered then you can consider how you are going to do it.
One way may be to securely screw some channelling to each side of the pillars and simply slot your boards in, though the would probably rattle in the wind.
Another is to fit a single strip of batten vertically to the pillar, nail or screw individual boards to this batten and then ft another batten to the front of these. To prevent shrinkage gaps you could use shiplap boards and overlap them.
if you mean you plan to build pillars on top of the wall, they will fall over the first time the wind blows.
If you mean you want the pillars reaching 6 ft from the ground, you could use RC fenceposts, sunk into the ground and tight to the wall. If you want them to blend in you can use dark brown masonry paint to match the fence stain on the wood, or if you can be bothered you can build bricks round them.
If you mean you want the pillars reaching 6 ft from the ground, you could use RC fenceposts, sunk into the ground and tight to the wall. If you want them to blend in you can use dark brown masonry paint to match the fence stain on the wood, or if you can be bothered you can build bricks round them.
Why should the the brick pillars built on wall fall over , I have seen them all over the place with no problems
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wind pressure. If you have a six-foot lever, you don't need to press very hard to demolish a wall.
If you ever see what look like brick pillars with a large gate hung on them, chances are (unless they are supported by a substantial wall) that the gate is hung on steel stanchions with an ornamental brick skin.
If you ever see what look like brick pillars with a large gate hung on them, chances are (unless they are supported by a substantial wall) that the gate is hung on steel stanchions with an ornamental brick skin.
One remedy for supporting the pillars would be to remove the existing 2 top courses of bricks and, (which may be bonded across the wall if it is double skin), re-lay them side up so the holes in the centre are visible. Then as you build your pillars you can slot some rebar, (twirled steel rods they use to reinforce concrete), through the holes in your pillar bricks making sure to pack the hole with mortar/cement to secure them centrally.
Alternatively, if you have a long masonry bit of the correct diameter you can drill down into the wall at least 2 or 3 courses and this should add stability.
Alternatively, if you have a long masonry bit of the correct diameter you can drill down into the wall at least 2 or 3 courses and this should add stability.
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