I've got a Stoves gas cooker, single oven type. The seal around the oven door has been leaking and has discolored the knobs above. I've just replaced the seal withe the official one from Stoves but I can see that it still isn't touching at the top of the door -if I look down I can see light between the seal and the inner surface of the door. There is no adjustment on the door hinge or catch. Has anyone met this problem and I wonder how I can close that gap by about 3mm.
How to seal gas oven
- Thread starter alanterrill
- Start date
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I deleted the post, please ignore.
The advice was for a drop down door, you stated it has a catch, that means its side opening.
Its very unusual to have an issue with a side opening door, whereas the inner glass isn't touching the door seal.
Are you sure you aren't looking down the gap in the upper section of the door seal where the flu is normally situated. (If this one is forward venting)
Which seal did you fit
Part number ending with 400 or 200
The advice was for a drop down door, you stated it has a catch, that means its side opening.
Its very unusual to have an issue with a side opening door, whereas the inner glass isn't touching the door seal.
Are you sure you aren't looking down the gap in the upper section of the door seal where the flu is normally situated. (If this one is forward venting)
Which seal did you fit
Part number ending with 400 or 200
Thanks for replying - the door is side opening and I've put a powerful torch inside the oven and shut the door and you can see light coming up past the seal along most of the top of the door. I also tied painting washing up liquid all around the seal and then closing the door to see where it touched. When I opened the door there was liquid on less than 30% of the glass door! The door has a glass inner which slides into a slot about an inch behind the door front. I don't understand what you're asking about forward venting. I can see no vent at the front. The cooker number is 050540032 if that helps. The seal I bought didn't have either of those numbers it was a ES466635 (see http://www.espares.co.uk/part/cooke...092/630/0/0/466635/main-oven-door-seal.html). It looks the same as the one I took off and it has always leaked. I've replaced the front panel once already and within 5 years all the paint around the knobs has bubbled up and the knobs have turned yellow. Seems like a poor design but I've got to keep it working as there are no comparable models left on the market (its 55cm wide LPG cooker with eye level grill.
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There is something drastically wrong with the appliance.
(Your's isn't forward venting, so forget my comment on that)
There is something drastically wrong with the appliance.
The door seal should be touching the inner glass along its top run.
You didnt make it clear whether it was touching the main door frame or the inner glass .
if it isn't then it's very possible the inner glass has slid further down the grooves than it is supposed too. There are plastic stops at the bottom of the grooves that are shaped like a wide letter "L" rotated clockwise at 90 degrees. You should see the bottom corner edge of the inner door glass resting on this, most of the stop will be hidden, as they are a push fit into the frame..
If this is not the case then the second most probable issue is that the oven cavity is sat further back from the front frame than it should be so when you fitted the door seal, that would also sit further back and not seal onto the door correctly.
When you removed the door seal, you would have noticed that the oven cavity is separate from the front frame.
For clarification:
The oven cavity is the square box that is on the inside of the door seal
The front frame is the front sheet of enamelled metal on the outer side of the door seal
The front edge of the cavity should be no further back than the front frame, e.g. not set back from it.
Remove the door seal again
Use a straight edge passing vertically from upper front frame, (above the top run of the door seal) across the cavity to an area of the front frame below the lower run of the door seal. (E.G an area just above the pan storage area.
If the cavity is set back, then you can "manipulate" it forward a bit
This will have the effect of pushing the door seal closer to the inner glass.
To do this. Inside the cavity on either side wall you will see 1 large cross headed screw, positioned about 2/3 rd's of the way back and slightly higher than half way up.
Before you start to slacken these screws, take one of the side panels off, this will let you see how the cavity is connected to the frame of the cooker and will give you some confidence in what you are doing.
All you are trying to do here is move the large box (cavity) slightly forward, there is no issue with any of the components or gas ways to be concerned about unless you remove the 2 cavity screws completely. Which you wont because you have a side panel off and can see how far you need to unscrew these longish, 1.5 inch screws fully)
Slacken these screws off quite a bit 2 or 3 full turns or more until the sleeve that the screw slots through is also quite free. the cavity can now be rocked around and moved a bit)
Use whatever force you deem necessary to manipulate the cavity forward then re-tighten the screws and refit the door seal
If you still have the same problem, replace the appliance
(Your's isn't forward venting, so forget my comment on that)
There is something drastically wrong with the appliance.
The door seal should be touching the inner glass along its top run.
You didnt make it clear whether it was touching the main door frame or the inner glass .
if it isn't then it's very possible the inner glass has slid further down the grooves than it is supposed too. There are plastic stops at the bottom of the grooves that are shaped like a wide letter "L" rotated clockwise at 90 degrees. You should see the bottom corner edge of the inner door glass resting on this, most of the stop will be hidden, as they are a push fit into the frame..
If this is not the case then the second most probable issue is that the oven cavity is sat further back from the front frame than it should be so when you fitted the door seal, that would also sit further back and not seal onto the door correctly.
When you removed the door seal, you would have noticed that the oven cavity is separate from the front frame.
For clarification:
The oven cavity is the square box that is on the inside of the door seal
The front frame is the front sheet of enamelled metal on the outer side of the door seal
The front edge of the cavity should be no further back than the front frame, e.g. not set back from it.
Remove the door seal again
Use a straight edge passing vertically from upper front frame, (above the top run of the door seal) across the cavity to an area of the front frame below the lower run of the door seal. (E.G an area just above the pan storage area.
If the cavity is set back, then you can "manipulate" it forward a bit
This will have the effect of pushing the door seal closer to the inner glass.
To do this. Inside the cavity on either side wall you will see 1 large cross headed screw, positioned about 2/3 rd's of the way back and slightly higher than half way up.
Before you start to slacken these screws, take one of the side panels off, this will let you see how the cavity is connected to the frame of the cooker and will give you some confidence in what you are doing.
All you are trying to do here is move the large box (cavity) slightly forward, there is no issue with any of the components or gas ways to be concerned about unless you remove the 2 cavity screws completely. Which you wont because you have a side panel off and can see how far you need to unscrew these longish, 1.5 inch screws fully)
Slacken these screws off quite a bit 2 or 3 full turns or more until the sleeve that the screw slots through is also quite free. the cavity can now be rocked around and moved a bit)
Use whatever force you deem necessary to manipulate the cavity forward then re-tighten the screws and refit the door seal
If you still have the same problem, replace the appliance
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