How to secure 120cm aluminum framed door in a 126cm gap ??

[SFK]

Hello,
To maximize light and improve view of garden I am looking to replace an old 'uPVC French double door' with a 'single Aluminum Framed door'.
This is an outside rear door.
I want as much glass as possible with the least amount of frame (the uPVC french door is all frame).

I have some DIYer experience of putting in uPVC doors and windows.
But these have all been made-to-fit for the the hole and so easy for me to secure normally using framing screws.
And I have never fitted an aluminum framed glass door

The issue is that my brick framed hole is 1260mm wide, but the widest aluminum framed glass door I can get is 1200mm.
I cannot find any Aluminum Framed doors wider than 1200mm.
So there is a total gap of 60mm, normally resulting in a 30mm gap on the left and right of the door.

This door will be heavy when opened and I am worried how best to secure the door to the brick surround with this large gap.

This is the type of door I am wanting to fit (not bought it yet).

aluminium-doors - Google Search

Any best fit suggestions to secure this 120cm aluminum framed door in a 126cm gap please??

Thanks, SFK

 

[foxhole]

Close the gap to correct size , aluminium spacers, or hardwood.

 

[vizo24]

Stick with hardwood and long screws to secure the frame. If you are not bothered about centration, perhaps the 60mm gaps can be on the side of the door handle.

 

[SFK]

Many thanks to both.
Was looking at steel rectangular box section.
And also at hardwood - so glad I am looking at correct direction.
Sfk

 

[vizo24]

Steel box section may be strong but mounting to wall may be easy, the door mounting to box may bring its challenges.

 

[Notch7]

75 x 25mm softwood packer either side or whatever is needed to match frame depth, shim up and foam

then fit matching aluminium cover trims

just a thought: you need to make sure the door cill supplied is long enough, same with any head trim supplied.

 

[SFK]

door cill supplied is long enough

Notch, with thanks for that.
Good point about the Door Cill, reminded me that was planning to slightly over wide so can have it a cm or two over the surrounding wall (have a notch cut taken out on each side). Will have to reconsider that as might look overwide with the cover trims also in place.
Many thanks, SFK

 

[SFK]

the door mounting to [steel] box may bring its challenges

Vizo,
I would normally use self tappers (into pilot holes) into steel box Section. .
But, you are correct about challenges as never done that with a door before as normally have allowed a bit of slack for thermal expansion of (uPVC) frame.
Looking as if the wood is the correct route. With wood I can affix to the wall at many multiple point to distribute the load of the door.

Thanks SFK

 

[johndiy21]

To fit a 120cm aluminum-framed door in a 126cm gap, fill the 30mm gaps on each side with treated timber or metal packers secured to the brickwork. Attach the door frame to these packers and the wall using masonry screws, focusing on the hinge side first.

Seal any remaining gaps with foam backer rods and exterior sealant for weatherproofing, then test the door to ensure it’s level and operates smoothly. Adding trim or weather stripping can enhance insulation and appearance. This will give you a secure and professional installation.

 

[Deluks]

Hopefully he's done it by now.

 

[crank39]

Another chatgpt or ai reply

 

[SFK]

Many thanks to all.
And used the December advice.
Used treated wood (25mm by 25mm) that was smaller than gap so could fill the gap with there al expanding foam and then covered with trim.
In the end this was the easy part.

The scary part was toeing the glass square.
With a massive grimace, crossed fingers and remembering that it was toughened glass that might pop, used a large screwdriver to lever the glass square and filled the gaps with shims.

In the end was dead square and looks great.

Many thanks to all, SFK