How true should a wall be?

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Hi there

I've had an extension built recently and had the walls float and set.

Looking at the walls closely today (soon to fit a kitchen), I've found they aren't particularly straight. For example, from the surface of the work top the wall 'falls away' vertically - about 1 cm over a distance of 60 cm. The walls also 'wave' quite a bit with a 2 or 3 mm deviations here and there.

Am I being fussy, or this acceptable/within reasonable tolerances? My concern is that when I come to fit cupboards and the like it my present a few challenges and affect the quality of the finish/fit.

For what it's worth, I still owe the builder a few grand, so I am in a position to raise the matter and negotiate a solution.

Thanks
 
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Hi there

I've had an extension built recently and had the walls float and set.

Looking at the walls closely today (soon to fit a kitchen), I've found they aren't particularly straight. For example, from the surface of the work top the wall 'falls away' vertically - about 1 cm over a distance of 60 cm. The walls also 'wave' quite a bit with a 2 or 3 mm deviations here and there.

Am I being fussy, or this acceptable/within reasonable tolerances? My concern is that when I come to fit cupboards and the like it my present a few challenges and affect the quality of the finish/fit.

For what it's worth, I still owe the builder a few grand, so I am in a position to raise the matter and negotiate a solution.

Thanks


A couple of mil is quite acceptable, but 10mm in 600mm out of plumb I would not be happy with at all .

Are your walls out 40mm in 2400 overall (presumably about the height of the room) then, going by the above?


I would also check the line of the worktop with a straight edge, checking especially that the walls to not curl out into the internal angles. A few minor deviations will not matter as long as it is straight overall.

Also check your window reveals for square and plumb, and any external angles too.


You may be tiling a splashback? Oveer the worktop.
 
Thanks for the response Micilin.

I measured the drift using a spirit level - I don't have anything longer that is definitely straight. Is it worth me buying a darby or similar to make a better overall assessment of the situation (Scewfix do a 1.8 m for £19)?

I'm keen to check the horizontal run where the cupboards/work surface will be. I will be tiling above the work surface, so should be able to hide any minor deviations.

I didn't see the plasterers use any grounds or similar to set their levels - is this normal, or only what the less experienced have to use?
 
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Thanks for the response Micilin.

I measured the drift using a spirit level - I don't have anything longer that is definitely straight. Is it worth me buying a darby or similar to make a better overall assessment of the situation (Scewfix do a 1.8 m for £19)?

I'm keen to check the horizontal run where the cupboards/work surface will be. I will be tiling above the work surface, so should be able to hide any minor deviations.

I didn't see the plasterers use any grounds or similar to set their levels - is this normal, or only what the less experienced have to use?

I wouldn't go to the expense of buying something you won't use again, but if you find a use for it a straight edge is a handy tool, fo rmarking out walls, cutting wood and timber .


If you get a straight piece of timber, you can check this with your eye before you buy. A length of 4 x 1 or 3 x 1 will do. Hold the level tight against this to check the overall deviation of the wall out of plumb.

ALWAYS remember to reverse your level to make sure it is reading the same both ways, just in case your level is out. Also reverse your straight edge when checking wals so that you have the same gap each way, showng your edge is true.

A plasterer won't use grounds, shouldn't have to unless he is bringing a wall out to a specific dimension, like a tiling detail or or absolute square for something to fit into. He will used screeds or be able to check his runling off as he goes
 

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