Ideal ICOS HE15 PCB/User Control Jumpers

Joined
13 Feb 2012
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Cleveland
Country
United Kingdom
Hi everyone,

Been reading through some posts and this looks like a decent community of people. I was wondering if someone might be able to help with a question I have.

Basically my boiler stopped working last week. We diagnosed the main PCB which is apparently a common fault on these boilers. I purchased a replacement PCB (V9 - orange type) and also a replacement user control kit.

When I got home I found the PCB box contained instructions for a completely different part! Random. Anyway.. we replaced the PCB and, as we didn't have the instructions, went with the jumper settings from the old board (position 1, 2, 3).

We also replaced the user control kit (leaving the jumper on 1 on this). When turning the boiler back on (thankfully there was power again!) the code 7 then 0 flashed up. From what I've read, this isn't right - I think the boiler should flash up either 0 then 1 or 1 then 0 (different posts seem to contain conflicting information). We didn't leave this new user control unit on to test if the water/heating fired up as we weren't convinced the 7,0 code was a good thing!

So we put the old user control kit back on, leaving the jumpers where they were, and this time the boiler fired up with 1, then 0 (which, depending on what you read, could be the correct sequence). We tried the water/heating and it's functioning as it should/was before.

I've read that the jumper settings are determined by the user control kit and that if it's a user control with a serial number ending in a certain number, the jumpers on the PCB should be in a certain place, if it ends with something else they should be somewhere else.

I'm going back to the place I bought the parts from today to pick up the instructions that should've been with the PCB but I wanted to ask a couple questions on here too. So:

1. Does anyone know the correct settings for the jumpers on the orange PCB when used with a new user control kit?
2. Looking at the user control kit, which part is the serial number (I've provided the numbers as they appear on a sticker on the back of the control kit)?
3. Does anyone know the number sequence the boiler should go through when turning on the power? Is this different depending on the PCB/user control kit?


User Control Kit Serial Number

033DI_9_2
173513A05
U033DI_7D3A
1044L0270


Thanks in advance everyone :)[/b]
 
Sponsored Links
That's spot on and answers everything - thank you very much for the quick reply and the pdf.

The user control kit works (it wasn't the cause of our loss of heating/water) but the reset button is a little dodgy so I thought I'd do them both at the same time.

Can I just ask one final question please? The "Secondary Control Link Setting" (page 5 of the instructions and bottom of page 3 on your scanned pdf) for the newer user control unit - our boiler is an ICOS HE15 and deals with heating and hot water. Is it therefore classed as a "combination appliance" and, as a result, should the jumper on the back of the user control unit be in position '2'?


Thanks
 
No, as yours is an Icos it is known as a 'heat only' appliance because all it does it heat water - it is down to the external controls (zone valves in particular) to divert that around either the radiators for heating or via the coil in the cylinder for hot water. Contrast this with a combination/combi boiler which has all of this gubbins inside the one case and hence delivers heating and hot water output seperately.

Mathew
 
Sponsored Links
Gotcha... so jumper on '1' on the back of the new user control unit and '2' on the PCB?

Thanks Matthew..
 
if there was a fault with the reset button hb faultcode would of come up.
so you probably replaced user control for no reason
 
Be careful assuming self-test diagnostics are fully exhaustive - there will be many failure modes that simply won't be picked up. One can only assume that the symptoms witnessed by the OP are one such example.

Besides which, they've now got a spare which, being an Ideal, can hardly be considered a bad thing! ;)

Mathew
 
Are you gas safe registered?
You have replaced a control that directly determines the mixture of gas and air that is combustion in the appliance. As such, the appliance should be recommissioned using a flue gas analyser and other methodologies. Change your user name to Tyrone (Coronation street character who committed a similar illegal act), and pay a gas safe engineer to check your handy work.
 
This thread is nearly three years old... I'm sure if something catastrophic had occurred it would've made the papers by now.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top