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Inhibitor point on a heating system

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I’ve seen videos where inhibitor is added via a bleed valve and all of the pain that goes with that. I was wondering if some sort of device can be added to a heating system which makes the adding of inhibitor easier in the future?
 
You can add a dosing point to any system, but I have only ever seen them on larger systems and in plant rooms. This is because they are too large, bulky, and unsightly for domestic installations.
Adding via a towel rail (with top mounted vents) is easy and convenient, as mentioned above.
I've modified a chrome blanking plug from a towel rail/radiator and added a schraeder valve (car tyre valve). Attaching this to the top of a towel rail means I can use a cycle pump or car tyre pump to depress the water level in the rail, shut the towel rail valves, and conveniently pour in heating chemicals. For most, though, draining or syphoning a couple of litres from the rail suffices so that inhibitor can again be poured in.

Do you have a magnetic filter (Magneclean, Fernox TF1, etc)? They too are designed to allow easy addition of chemicals.
 
Thanks guys. I have a magnaclen and towel rail. I’ve just YouTubed those methods. Many thanks
 
Is this the go-to inhibitor or do you recommend something else?
https://www.toolstation.com/sentine...4R27AWKOyZzCdmJ_TUB4zxoCJSYQAvD_BwE#full-desc

Do I need 1L for a combi system that has 9 radiators?

Finally, (I am hoping this won’t be required but if I need to drain down the system before adding the inhibitor, do I need to bleed air out of all the rads and does this need to be done in a particular order?

Thanks again.
 
Sentinel x100, Fernox F1, Adey MC1 just as long as it’s not a cheapo version. To add it, just isolate the rad you’re adding it to (noting lockshield turns), drain via drain point or crack a nut to drain enough out, then just bleed this rad when you re-open valves.

Just re-read MM’s post in which he does state this.
 
Is there a scenario (dodgy TRV?) where draining the system becomes necessary?
 

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