Installing a dish washer

[keen2learn]

Hi,
I have rearranged the layout in the kitchen, to make space for a slimline dishwasher, I have done this by removing a wine rack and shoving the fridge and freezer about 200ml leaving me a 480ml gap.
View media item 59902I want to make this as simple as possible, so my plan is to purchase a 2.5m cold water feed pipe ( as in a blue washer hose) and a 2.5m drain extention hose, run them both under the cupboards to the sink where the plumbing is. Can anyone see any issues with the 2.5m run, cold water is mains pressure and the only rise in the drain hose is from floor level to the spigot under the sink
View media item 59903one question regarding the spigot, the junction where the spigot will be attached, (lower circle) is sealed you can put your finger in the hole half an inch, but I cant work out how to remove the blanking cover, the plumbing is over 10 years old would it need drilling out?
View media item 59904the last picture is just to give an indication of distance from where the dishwasher will be in relation to the sink.

many thanks in advance

 

[Breesey]

The cold feed can be as long as you like.

The waste should not be run along the floor and up to the spigot. If you have to run it along the floor fit a non-return valve. Not sure how it will feel about being 2.5m long...

Yes, drill out the spigot would work!

 

[keen2learn]

Thanks for your response Breesey,
what are my other options regarding running the drain hose, cupboards in situe makes it the only feasible option that I can see, also is drilling the only option, is that what was done on older waste systems.

thanks

 

[Breesey]

As I say, fit an NRV (if it doesn't have one already) and that should be ok.

Unless the spigot has a blank pushed into it drilling is the easiest option I would say. You could slice it off below if that left enough to attach the waste pipe to.

 

[keen2learn]

Hi,

Because the washer drain connector vents to air through the half bowl sink plughole, my understanding is because it is vented and not airtight it could not siphon back or am I misunderstanding something?

Carl

 

[seco services]

Running that hose round the floor your going to be left with a hose full of stagnant stinking water left in the pipe.

 

[keen2learn]

Hi seco,

thanks for your input, do you have any idea what my alternative would be?

 

[picasso]

If you can try and get the hose as high as possible as soon as it leaves the d/washer, then you can have a fall down to the spigot, this way it stops the dirty water leaving the sink from filling the bottom of your machine,

you might be able to run the hose inside the cupboards at the back.

 

[dann09]

Why not drop/remove that tee and clean up the connections ( they've already been disturbed ).
Dont drill anything out, the spigot cap might be a snap-on or possibly threaded. Anyway, once you have the tee out it will be easier to decide on how to proceed.

As others have said, go high with the D/W waste line, and tie it to the work top soffit. Then drop it just before the trap.
Hose clip it to the spigot.
Dont operate the D/W and W/M together.

Mfr's Instruction's should discuss a NRV.

 

[dann09]

Looking at the under-sink pic:

1. where is that cable coming from and going to? It's not exactly kosher.

2. given that your W/M discharge is connected to the waste basket spigot - Upper circle - what is the other pipe going into the tee branch - do you have a double bowl/waste sink? Or have i lost my bearings?

3. Ref the D/W, dont forget to pre-drill thru the W/T for an elec conn on the splash back.

 

[keen2learn]

Hi picasso.

luckily the spigot is on the half bowl rather than the main bowl, so there will be very little risk of the bottom of the dish washer getting filled up.

Dan09
The cable you can see is part of the pop up waste not anything electric, I did dismantle the plumbing under there last night and looked inside the spiggot connection point there is a blue bung in there no obvious way to remove it and yes it is a 1.5 bowl sink.

I have had a thought regarding routing the drain hose, while keeping it off the floor, I could use a hole saw through both sides of the oven cabinet and clip the drain hose to the wall behind the oven, hole saw through both sides of corner cupboard clipping it to the back wall of the cabinet and hole saw through to under the sink and drop down onto the spigot would this work?

***Edit**** sorry picasso missed that suggestion

 

[dann09]

Why not sack the present set-up, and for about £4 to £5 go Screwfix for say:
Either:
1. a 40mm telescopic p-trap and adaptor(spigot) or similar?
2. a hose connector.
3. sink and W/M trap and spigot.
4. an appliance trap adaptor ( spigot).

Your W/m spigot conn requires a hose/jubilee clip.

Your plan to snake the line seems fine - but drop as late as possible and no sags in the line.

Prior to buying, discuss with Mfr's length of discharge etc.

Note: for some reason the trap/sink pic is now much less fuzzy.

 

[Johnwayne2]

Don`t drill out anything, change the trap,if that spigot blank doesn`t unscrew (it should) run waste inside cupboards clipped at back.If you have more than one appliance going into the sink trap via a spigot,buy a trap with two spigots, simples.

 

[keen2learn]

o.k so Ive routed the drain hose to the sink and it is about a meter too long, I want to cut down the drain hose, and put a new rubber end on the hose like this
View media item 60412now simple enough to screw in but I suspect not water tight would a jubilee clip work or would I need some plastic solvent adhesive?