Insulating - suspended timber floor - solid walls

Joined
11 Oct 2010
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Shropshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi, my first post so sorry to drag up this old chestnut....

Property built in 1902 with suspended timber floors and ornate coving in two reception rooms.

1. I would like to insulate under the floors and leave boards exposed. I have seen a number of threads but no definitive answer about the best way to achieve this.
If I use a solid insulation board battened between the joists - kingspan or similar - do I still need a vapour barrier or breathable membrane and if so, where do I stick it? Do the insulation boards need to be placed so that they are touching the underside of the floorboards when they are relaid or should there be a gap? Is there anything else I should also be doing to reduce draughts from the edges/walls
If I use a soft, loft insulation type product, what sort of barrier/membrane should I drape between the joists to support it and which bits go where?
I don't think there is much crawl space but I intend to lift the boards to install.

2. Does anyone know how I might insulate internally my solid brick walls? I have considered drylining with thermal backed plasterboard as we are having damp treated and plater is being hacked off anyway, but cannot find a product thin enough. The existing plaster is only approx 20mm deep and we cannot go any thicker because of the period coving. The damp course company intends to render with a sand/cement mix with waterproof stuff in it to protect from damp after the chemical DPC has been injected. Anyone got any better suggestions to improve thermal qualities. I will not render externally.[/list]
 
Sponsored Links
You can insulate with a rigid board type such as Kingspan or a flexible quilt type such as Rockwool.

If opting for rigid this can be held in place with battens as you mention or nails or similar fixed into the bottom of the sides of the joists to make a shelf to sit the insulation on. The insulation should be fixed up tight to the bottom of the boards. Seal any gaps with expanding foam.

If opting for a quilt type this can be held with thin chicken wire fixed to the top of the joists to create a basket shape to cradle the insulation if you see what I mean. The chicken wire needs to be man enough so as to be stiff and not drape down over time. Again the insulation should be held up tight to the bottom of the boards.

For additional draught resistance fix a layer of hardboard under the boards. No need for any Vapour Control layers or similar. V Important: The void beneath should be well ventilated though if not already whether you insulate or not.

You can seal any gaps you come across with a flexible filler such as mastic.

I don’t think there’s a product out there for your walls, even if there was an insulated board 20mm thick it wouldn’t do anything of use.

If you want to retain period features you sometimes have to put up with period heating loss!
 
I think you must be right freddymercurystwin - I will get another jumper and marvel at the coving from under my blanket! It's right lovely!! ;)

Thank you for confirming the position re vapour barrier. The space appears to be well ventilated but we will check that the airbricks are unobstructed properly when the floor comes up.

Has anyone used wallrock thermal lining paper or am I clutching at straws? Seems a bit pricy for a limited benefit?
 
I think its very easy for some suppliers to make certain claims about their products. What I'd like to see which would be useful is an R value for their product (measure of thermal resistance in a material/insulation etc) but surprise surprise the techy datasheet does not provide one! Very odd seeing as their pushing it for its heat retaining properties!

If you read the facts they appear to be pushing they seem to be saying a room may heat up quicker, nothing about retaining heat or costing less to maintain a certain temperature.

http://www.erfurt.com/cms/fileadmin/Bildarchiv/KlimaTec/DIY/VKFES-MUBKT-Thermovlies-PV_TM-GB001.pdf

You spend you money and takes your chances with products like this ............
 
Sponsored Links

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top