Is one BS3621 lock enough for a wooden door?

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After she binge-watched Special Ops: To Catch a Criminal, my sister asked for my help in improving her home security. I'd appreciate all advice!

Wood front door: Already fitted with a British Standard rim lock. Is that enough, as it’s a BS3621 lock? She likely won’t want a London bar for the front doorframe for aesthetic reasons. I guessed hinge bolts mightn’t be necessary, since it's an inward-opening door. What else would you consider?

Wood back door: Already fitted with a British Standard mortice sash lock. Is that also adequate? Can a BS3621 lock be crowbarred open? I don’t want to add door bolts because she needs to open the door from both sides. Aesthetics are less of an issue for the back door, so I could add some door reinforcement. But I'm unsure about a Birmingham bar or other reinforcement options.

Incidentally, the TV footage showed thieves completely ignoring security lights and CCTV. Is nothing a deterrent nowadays?
 
After she binge-watched Special Ops: To Catch a Criminal, my sister asked for my help in improving her home security. I'd appreciate all advice!

Wood front door: Already fitted with a British Standard rim lock. Is that enough, as it’s a BS3621 lock? She likely won’t want a London bar for the front doorframe for aesthetic reasons. I guessed hinge bolts mightn’t be necessary, since it's an inward-opening door. What else would you consider?

Wood back door: Already fitted with a British Standard mortice sash lock. Is that also adequate? Can a BS3621 lock be crowbarred open? I don’t want to add door bolts because she needs to open the door from both sides. Aesthetics are less of an issue for the back door, so I could add some door reinforcement. But I'm unsure about a Birmingham bar or other reinforcement options.

Incidentally, the TV footage showed thieves completely ignoring security lights and CCTV. Is nothing a deterrent nowadays?

BS locks are very strong and built to resist a crowbar, and have a box staple so you can't reach the end of the bolt. The door or frame will give way first.

On a back door, you can add a mortice rack bolt near the top and one near the bottom. Added to the mortice deadbolt it means the door will resist kicking or barging, and prevent it levering out at the top or bottom. Assuming you do not live in a district where people use the back door as entry and final exit.

On my garage personal door, which is only ever unlocked from outside, so does not have bolts, I have two BS deadlocks, suited to the same key

Best to remove the key when not on use and hang it on a nearby hook. I have mine on tbe same keyring as the mortise lock key. It is best if keys can neither be seen nor reached by someone outside, even if they break the glass or use a fishing hook.

The front door can have a deadlock added to supplement the BS nightlatch. Ideally one fitted a third up from the bottom and one a third down from the top. But most people get into the habit of only ever using the nightlatch, unless they are going on holiday. The nightlatch is also easy to open as an emergency exit without needing a key. The knob can however be turned from outside if the letterbox is nearby, using a simple home-made tool.

Look at your hinges. You preferably have three strong steel ones. I sometimes use stainless fire door hinges, which are very strong because fire doors are very heavy.
 
Many thanks for the lock advice and suggestions @JohnD (y)

Did you also consider doorframe or other reinforcement, e.g. a Birmingham/London bar or an anti-thrust guard?

ASEC Anti-Thrust Lock Guard Plate.jpg
 
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