I've moved into a house and found the following setup - probably all around 25 years old or more....
* Ideal E type CF Boiler floor standing, with integral Myson unit 2 pump
* SOPAC thermostat
* Landis and Gyr programmer, don't know which model see picture View media item 2417
* Approx 90cm Hot water cylinder on ground floor with thin jacket - no cylinder thermostat
* Radiators in downstairs rooms with no TRVs and mostly jammed valves with screw tops - one dribbled a bit when I tried to open with a grip and the screw in the top was rusted off.
* Radiators upstairs with TRVs - the radiators upstairs look much newer.
I've bled all the radiators bar one upstairs which refuses to fill up with water above the half way mark - all the upstairs ones were in fact full or air as was one of the downstairs ones. Not sure how to fix this one as the other upstairs radiators bled very easily!
My other main query at the moment is to work out why the CH only works when the HW is on. The ON ONCE TWICE OFF switch for the CH seems to be linked to the HW so that you can't turn on CH without HW and the CH override switch will light but the boiler won't kick in unless HW is on as well. Also without a cylinder thermostat what is it that stops the boiler running at all once the thermostat goes off?
If I could work out which model of programmer this was I might be able to download the user manual.
The boiler was apparently serviced in Dec 07 and looks fairly clean behind the panel. I'd like to upgrade it to a wall mounted condensing one and get a matching programmable controller and programmable thermostat but would rather wait until planned house renovations / extensions take place to avoid having to fit everything twice in the space of 18 months.
I suspect the system needs a good flush. I'd like to get a cylinder thermostat but I'm wondering whether its worth buying another larger hot water tank (previously only 2 people in the house now 5) and locating this in the attic - also whether anyone has any other tips for quick win improvements?
* Ideal E type CF Boiler floor standing, with integral Myson unit 2 pump
* SOPAC thermostat
* Landis and Gyr programmer, don't know which model see picture View media item 2417
* Approx 90cm Hot water cylinder on ground floor with thin jacket - no cylinder thermostat
* Radiators in downstairs rooms with no TRVs and mostly jammed valves with screw tops - one dribbled a bit when I tried to open with a grip and the screw in the top was rusted off.
* Radiators upstairs with TRVs - the radiators upstairs look much newer.
I've bled all the radiators bar one upstairs which refuses to fill up with water above the half way mark - all the upstairs ones were in fact full or air as was one of the downstairs ones. Not sure how to fix this one as the other upstairs radiators bled very easily!
My other main query at the moment is to work out why the CH only works when the HW is on. The ON ONCE TWICE OFF switch for the CH seems to be linked to the HW so that you can't turn on CH without HW and the CH override switch will light but the boiler won't kick in unless HW is on as well. Also without a cylinder thermostat what is it that stops the boiler running at all once the thermostat goes off?
If I could work out which model of programmer this was I might be able to download the user manual.
The boiler was apparently serviced in Dec 07 and looks fairly clean behind the panel. I'd like to upgrade it to a wall mounted condensing one and get a matching programmable controller and programmable thermostat but would rather wait until planned house renovations / extensions take place to avoid having to fit everything twice in the space of 18 months.
I suspect the system needs a good flush. I'd like to get a cylinder thermostat but I'm wondering whether its worth buying another larger hot water tank (previously only 2 people in the house now 5) and locating this in the attic - also whether anyone has any other tips for quick win improvements?
