KITCHEN LIGHTS HAVE POPPED! - own terminology!

[helpagal]

Hi there
Have 6 dimmable downlighters in the kitchen and on switching on heard a popping sound from the dimmable switch and all the lights not working (kitchen only - everywhere else ok). Have checked the fuses but all ok - can someone help or should I call A MAN!

 

[breezer]

take ALL the lamps out, put them back one at a time.
test each as you put them back (turn it on, then off)

 

[helpagal]

ok - will do that now!! thank you

ok done that - took them all out and tried each one at a time - none of them are working!!
________________________
moderator

please note 10a

 

[breezer]

are the lights 12v?

i assume they are, in which case its either the transformer or the dimmer switch.

put some lamps back, and change the switch to an ordainairy on /off one (note my signature)
if lights work, its dimmer
if they dont its transfomer

 

[helpagal]

ok so basically i'm hearing that I need a man! I did get my dad (not a diy enthusiast) to change the switch to a dimmer so it could be that - this was done about 6 months ago. Just out of interest where is the transformer (you never know, I might be able to have a go)
Thanks for your advice though - got to get the bulbs back in now!!!

 

[breezer]

it depends on if there IS a transfromer, what voltage are the lights? (take one out and it will be stamped on it)

if there is a transformer it (or they) will probably be in the ceiling

 

[helpagal]

halolamp 1540/k12 240v 50w
does this make sense?

 

[breezer]

it does, there is no transformer, they are 240v, so its probably the switch, as i said change it for an on /off one to see what happens

 

[ban-all-sheds]

300W of mains halogens, a popping noise from the dimmer, and all the lights on that switch stopped working.....

Any bets?

Helpagal - if they all work with a normal switch then the problem is almost certainly that the dimmer switch could not cope with the load - mains halogens have a very high startup surge.

Try replacing it with an MK K1501WHILV ( http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/products/item.asp?itemid=3065&rangeid=1030 )

 

[helpagal]

thanks guys
will get dad round to change the switch.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Watch what he does - no reason you can't do that sort of thing..

 

[helpagal]

Think I would learn more from the DIY manual than my dad - what little faith I have! Cheers for all the advice

 

[ban-all-sheds]

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=75416#75416

 

[Sparky Jim]

As there was no problem with other lights on the circuit, and a "popping" sound was clearly identified as coming from the switch, it would appear that the light switch has given up the ghost. The most likely reason for this is loading being incorrect for the switch in question.

From the subsequent post above, the lamps and fittings are obviously GU10 220V 50W units, and as there are 6 of them on this sub-circuit the total loading is some 300W inductive. Obviously being a DIY forum you would not know to account for leading or lagging power factor as a result of the inductance of the lamps, however as a general rule of thumb, GU10 lamps need to be seen as requiring a switch capable of loading up to about 1.8X the full load of the total number of lamps on the circuit. Realistically, the dimmer on this circuit would need to be rated at some 600W in order to safely and effectively operate these downlighters. Anything less will likely die in a similar time frame to this unit.

 

[HDRW]

thanks guys
will get dad round to change the switch.

Out of interest, when the dimmer is out have a look and see what it's rated at (some number followed by W). You were controlling 300W with it, so it would be interesting to know what rating (and the maker's name) of dimmer lasts a few months and then Pops off!

Cheers,

Howard