Leak from radiator valve with reducer on copper pipe

[Cakey101]

After some decorating and refitting the radiator, I have a tiny leak from a 10mm copper pipe with a reducer that has no olive.
What would anyone recommend?
Would this be suffice?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/yorkshir...l+Content&utm_content=TextLink&utm_term=58258

If so, one question as I have never used one before. I assume solder is not needed and I could use a heat gun?
Cheers.

 

[terryplumb]

That fitting is fine. You will need to clean the copper pipe so it is bright and shiny, with wire wool or similar. You will need to add flux ,and I very much doubt a heat gun will generate enough heat to melt the solder. You would use a blow torch.

 

[Cakey101]

OK. Thanks for the response.
I will obviously need a 15mm olive.
What would anyone recommend? Copper or brass?
Cheers.

 

[Madrab]

You will need to empty the immediate bit of pipe of water too or it will never solder. If you're not experienced with soldering copper pipework then I would advise against your first outing being a radiator supply pipe.

I only use copper olives where possible.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

OK. Thanks for the response.
I will obviously need a 15mm olive.
What would anyone recommend? Copper or brass?
Cheers.

Copper olives are better.

 

[Cakey101]

You will need to empty the immediate bit of pipe of water too or it will never solder. If you're not experienced with soldering copper pipework then I would advise against your first outing being a radiator supply pipe.

I only use copper olives where possible.

After isolating the water supply and reducing the pressure from the gas boiler, I did notice water in the pipe.
How would I get rid of that? Would I have to drain all of the radiators?
If I do go the solder route, I will practice first on scrap pipes.

If removing the water is too much trouble would replacing the original reducer with a new compression reducing set with an olive be worthwhile?
Cheers

 

[Madrab]

After isolating the water supply and reducing the pressure from the gas boiler, I did notice water in the pipe

You don't need to isolate the water, the CH is a sealed system and independent of the water supply.

I use a wet vac to draw some water out but I have seen me blow down the other pipe or suck enough water out of the pipe to allow it to be soldered, wouldn't necessarily recommend that but sometime needs must, just don't swallow and rinse mouth out after.

Once a snap reducer has been used you won't be able to get the lower part of it off the pipe due to the way it works, so you aren't be able to replace it.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I use a wet vac to draw some water out but I have seen me blow down the other pipe or suck enough water out of the pipe

That explains a lot about plumbers, I thought it was just the lead

 

[Cakey101]

You don't need to isolate the water, the CH is a sealed system and independent of the water supply.

I use a wet vac to draw some water out but I have seen me blow down the other pipe or suck enough water out of the pipe to allow it to be soldered, wouldn't necessarily recommend that but sometime needs must, just don't swallow and rinse mouth out after.

Once a snap reducer has been used you won't be able to get the lower part of it off the pipe due to the way it works, so you aren't be able to replace it.

One question I should have asked. Would using PTFE tape work?
If so, where would be the best place to place it?
Cheers.

 

[Madrab]

It can but it's hit 'n' miss. Take the loose section that fits into the valve, join it back to the piece that's fixed to the pipe, drawn the nut down off the piece on the pipe and wrap the tape around the whole brass section top and bottom, I use gas PTFE tape as it's thicker. It might work, it night not, depends where it's leaking. If the 10mm pipe going into the reducer isn't perfectly straight then it's probably leaking down internally past that, if that's the case then it really needs replaced.